Monthly Archives: July 2019

I’m starting to see a pattern here with the names, at ELLEN brae we played with their dog EVIE and chatted with CLYDE at the Gibb river store and now at March Fly GLEN!!! Ellen Weeding and her daughter Evie, Noela and Ian Clyde and now Glen Sherritt(sorry Glen no beer here) all friends.

We all dragged our heels this morning, I reckon it was a good 10.30 before we broke camp. Our first stop would be Imintji, felt really spoilt they had real coffee and fresh bread and milk! We sat out and once again chatted to fellow travellers, one fellah is alone and has been on the road around Australia for 6 years now and still loving it. Oh look, Jocks mate from God TV, you do come across the same people travelling this road, we will leave you with him Jock!!!

After a nice lunch stop we were back on the road, it really is dusty now a horrible blackish grey dust as opposed to the red dust. For some reason this one seems to be getting in to everywhere. We passed the Bell Gorge turn off, this was our next place to visit, but for now we would go and set up camp and take it in turns to go to the Gorge because we cannot take the dogs. March fly Glen, yet another free camp. We set up over the back in an open area right next to a huge termite mound. Another couple pulled up next to us, Chris and Mick from Melbourne, they have been on the road for nearly 12 months and loving every minute. They were very friendly and joined us at the fire in the evening.

Chris is big into bird watching and told us the yellow breasted bird we had seen was a rainbow bee eater. She also showed us a brilliant app she had for identifying birds, it costs $80 but well worth it. I will get it one day in the meantime Michelle has a free app that has helped us out now and then. Chris and Mick have also been on the Cape York road and have told us it is definitely not worse that the Gibb. Great news as we are already planning our next big road trip in 2021 to Cape York. They had also come the opposite way to us along the Gibb so assured us the road gets much better and soon.

Bell Gorge.

This morning Michelle and Trevor headed off to Bell Gorge. Jock and I stayed to watch Ruby their dog and the caravan. Mick and Chris took advantage of Jock and I being at camp all day and left their van with us so they could go off and explore. Jock played about with his leather and started to practice plaiting leather for a belt. I wrote post cards and got up to date with my diary. Michelle and Trevor were back by mid day and had loved the Gorge, Michelle reassured me that I would manage the walk in to Bell Gorge. So Jock and I will go tomorrow, it is too hot in the afternoon to be starting out on a trek of any kind. Trevor was having trouble with his batteries in the van so Jock helped him change them.

The next day Jock and I got up early and headed for Bell Gorge, it wasn’t terribly hard to walk out there but difficult all the same. We had Michelle’s little esky stool with us so I was able to sit when I needed to. Bell Gorge was just lovely I could have sat there all day just soaking it all up, listening to the small amount of water coming over the falls and heaps of parrots, Jock and I were the only ones there for about 30 minutes.

I left there with great photos, great memories and a broken finger!! Jock wanted to cross some rocks for better photos and suggested I stayed where I was. Well those who know me will realise I do not want to miss anything so I insisted I came too. OOpps!! The rocks were slippy and I was soon sat fully clothed in a pool of water. At first pain and fright were present, then I was laughing, I could not get out, feet and shoulders out but bum stuck in the small pool of water. Jock was just angry, well not really it was pure frustration and concern, frustrated cause he told me not to attempt it and concern as to me hurting myself. I shimmied along and sat up on rocks then Jock helped me up, my finger was sore and I looked down at it!!!! @$#@!!! I had my hand out in front of me but my little left finger was pointing west?? I felt a bit queasy and announced to Jock I had broken my finger. He looked at it and told me it was just dislocated. I put my hand behind my back and he pulled it back into place. Once back at the car the first aid kit came out and he strapped the little finger to the next finger, by now it was throbbing. I reckoned I needed a coffee, so we drove back a couple of K’s to Imintji and got a lovely coffee then headed back to camp passing Mick and Chris coming the other way, they were heading off. That night with my black finger and an endone for the pain I told Jock I reckoned I had broken my finger. Not that there was much we could do until we reach Derby, no docs around here.

Getting to here today was having to admit we were at least half way and didn’t have much longer on the Gibb River Road although there is still plenty to see. We have decided Mt Barnette is our new swear word, something we all did not want to hear. But one consolation they had fresh coffee! We had lunch here and chatted to other travellers, everyone was so up beat and enjoying their experience.

We carried on to a free camp called Frog Hollow, the creek was muddy and drying up but the bird life was prolific. As soon as we were set up we were birdwatching. Jock has become very interested in taking photos of the birds and Trevor too, you cant help it with so many colourful birds around you. En-route we get to see some funny signs and some abandoned cars/caravan. I have taken pictures of a few, the Aussie sense of humour is all along the Gibb River Road.

Trevor and Jock got a fire together as per usual and evening was spent talking about what we have done so far and what we would like to do. Michelle and I have decided we are definitely doing the Horizontal falls day trip from Broome. So are now getting very excited about it.

It was a lovely morning and before heading out I took some pictures of the area.

Our first stop today was the Gibb River Road store, it advertised ice cream and fuel. Our fuel light had just come on so an ideal time to fill up. We do have plenty of spare fuel with us but much better to keep that in reserve. We pulled up to the “store” (shack) and Clyde came out to pump the fuel for us, a big local aboriginal ready for a chat. That suited Trevor and Jock cause you know how they like a yarn. Michelle, Emma and I headed inside the store to check out the ice cream freezer. What a disappointment, it was empty and no coffee!! We had a wander about looking at the expensive goods, $5 for a pkt of chips (crisps). We checked out the small art area and saw some lovely little paintings with silhouette boabs on them, they really were lovely but $25 each. Early days yet, will wait and see what other nice things we find on the road. Apart from that, Michelle and I reckoned we could do our own…..watch this space!!! lol Jock asked Clyde if we could top up our water and he told us to go for it. Excellent, fuel and water now we were set for a few more days free camping. Like the fuel we do have spare water but again best kept.

Once again there were lots of lovely birds to see, Clyde was telling us there were 130 different species in this area alone. Clyde also assured us that the road does get better about 20k onwards. At the moment it is thick red dust and terrible corrugation. Our next planned stop was Hahn River, we pulled in there and decided it was not suitable and continued up the road. Michelle found a gorge for us to go and see, 11k off the main highway so we all agreed what a great idea. Warla Gorge. Well, the description was, rocky road but ends right next to the beach at the gorge, perfect right???? OMG! It was a one lane track through trees, no where to turn around and the rocks were more like boulders. Remember we are towing a caravan! Trevor had gone ahead and at the beginning when we first saw the track Jock radioed Trevor and said, “did you go along the track with all the boulders”? Trevor came back, “yep”. So Jock gingerly started over the rocks wondering if this really was a good idea. It was a very slow 11k’s and some of it was a bit hairy but OMG great fun. Had we been on our own we probably would not have taken the track but so glad we did.

Sure enough the track finally took us to the beach side of the gorge. Not much water but was lovely to see. It was always in the back of my mind that we had to go back the same way!! We opened all the windows of the caravan and left the dogs in there. There had been huge signs on the way in about dog baiting so we were not going to take any chances. Jock also checked the van with that being such a rough ride, all was good. We did see a tree on our way that Trevor clipped. We took lots of pics and had a wander along the gorge.

Now for the return trip. I have to say it didn’t feel so bad on the way back, we knew what was coming. So Highline caravans can be pleased with themselves as the van took the whole thing in its stride. Jock definitely enjoyed this kind of driving. We met Michelle and Trevor back at the gate and decided time was getting on, we definitely did not want to be on the road coming into dusk so we would pull in at Elizabeth Station just up the road. It is a huge camping facility but nothing special considering all the wonderful places we had camped for free. Every was tired so we ate, showered and retired. Did not bother to unhook cars as we would be heading off first thing in the morning.

We had no rush to be anywhere so it was a nice leisurely morning. Emma had to do some school work and I took more photos. We will definitely come back to this spot one day. We had been reading that a station up the road was serving scones and cream, now if you have been on this road you will know what an absolute treat that would be. It was only 20k from our last nights stop so as soon as we saw the signs for it we turned off. Ellenbrae Station fresh scones and cream yum! Shame the coffee was an urn with granules, not to worry the scones made up for that. We all had a scone each and chatted with the people there, it was a friendly atmosphere. The stations dog Evie was so cute and friendly we spent time playing with her while Jock was accosted by a bloke from God TV. This group were travelling about the indigenous communities installing a free station called God TV. Doing a great job for those who are in need or want it but poor Jock was getting a sermon. Now you all know we are not religious and we think each to their own but when you have someone preaching to you you feel rude if you start telling them how you feel about it all. So Jock was polite and let this man preach. Sorry Jock for us all getting up and leaving you with him! (not) lol.

Michelle and I purchased a couple of interesting booklets, I bought rare birds of WA and Birds of Prey, Michelle bought one on the different rock formations. We have seen so many birds of prey on this trip I will now be able to identify them. As we waited for Jock we spotted some lovely colourful birds and took some good photos.

Once back on the road we soon found the Gibb River Camp, it was much smaller than we had expected but decided it was just for one night and pulled up. Trevor used his chain saw to drop an old dead tree for fire wood. Jock dug a hole for the fire pit and we were all soon settled and enjoying the bird watching, so many birds. We also had a bull very close to us, we had obviously moved in on his territory!

The fire was lit and we had left overs for dinner around the fire. Perfect! Do not know how we will settle back to “normal” life at home after living like this it is just so relaxing, dinner by the fire chatting and star gazing. Every now and then the bull would get too close for our liking and Trevor would choo him away.

Emma and I painted a couple of Isla stones to leave around the Gibb area, one was left here under a beautiful ghost gum tree. If you want to know about the Isla stones there is a facebook page.

Most of the road was not too bad today although some of it was horrendous. There is bitumen when climbing hills which is a huge help. Apparently one day soon the Gibb is going to be all bitumen, I am glad we are getting to drive it as it is. Michelle radioed us to tell us to pull up 500mtrs down the road as she had seen on wiki camps there was a place of interest. Bindoola falls, just 200mtrs walk from the main highway. We all stopped to go have a look, it was an easy walk out to it and I am so glad Michelle had spotted it, we could have driven straight passed not knowing it was there. Of course being the dry season now the water was not running but it was stunning. Michelle and I just kept taking photos hoping it would show up as nice on them.

We got on our way again and after looking at a couple of possible free camps we plumbed for one next to the Durack River. Yeh another river with possible crocs. only difference is we were way above the river on a rocky cliff so I was happy. It was amazing to be camped beside this huge river just our three vans. Mick was soon out fishing and he caught something, a cat fish. Which he did eat for dinner.

Trevor gathered some great wood and built us a great fire, we all gathered for our usual pow wow of an evening deciding where to next. We decided it was such a nice spot we would have a day of leisure here tomorrow.

So many flies about I got Jock to put up the fly net gazebo. It was so nice to be able to sit in there and not get bothered by flies. Also the dogs did not need to be on a lead in there and we could be sure they were not picking up any baits. There were lots of birds about and a lazy day was had by all. Jock did some fishing, didn’t catch a thing, Mick caught another cat fish but decided to throw it back. I voiced to everyone that I would like another day here. I just love the setting and of course high enough from the water to be away from those crocs.

Michelle got the fire going tonight and we had our evening shesh. I had bought some powder to put into the fire to give it colourful flames for Emma, everyone enjoyed them.

We sat back and watched the stars pointing out where each constellation is and now and then watching a satellite pass by. Mick and Joy announced that they were breaking camp tomorrow and getting to Broome as soon as possible. A shame that the dream team was losing some team members but we understood that if they were not enjoying the adventure it was best they did what they wanted to. This is certainly not the kind of place to be if your not enjoying it.

Next morning we said goodbye to Joy and Mick, they said they would see us in Broome. We stayed put and enjoyed another relaxing day by the river. Michelle made us all pancakes for breakfast, after all it is sunday, it seems this has become another one of our habits this trip. We chatted about what we wanted out of the trip and where we wanted to go. We all agreed a slower pace. Michelle and I were going to do a flight over Mitchele falls and a bungle bungles helicopter flight but we have decided to ditch those two and go for just one special day trip to the Horizontal Falls. We have not set it in concrete but it is a plan in the making, cost is probably the biggest consideration. Tomorrow we would get up and when we are ready drive on to the Gibb River free camp.

Leaving the free Pentecost river camp was a relief but at the same time it really was a lovely setting. No I did not see any Crocs. but that’s not to say they were not there. Now we get to do our first river crossing with the van, everyone had cameras at the ready.

The drive to Home Valley was not long and the road was certainly better that the one so far. We set the vans up around a shaded seating area which was very handy. We all got into getting some washing done, although the washing machine there was pretty useless and ended up staining our clothes. We reckon its bore water! The fun began! A couple had gone over to the washing machines and lifted the lids, Mick went to investigate, well I could hear him from our van, he was not happy. The couple were wanting the clothes out of the machines as they needed to use them????? As it was, the machines had stopped as there was a power cut. So said couple sent away with flea in their ear. Then, yep another dickhead came on the scene next to us arguing that he wanted Trevor’s electrical socket, even though there was another there. He had worked out who’s was who’s and Trevor had used his. OMG!!! Jock suggested he plug his in the spare one, no Trevor’s was his!!! So Jock unplugged Trevor’s moved it over and he was happy!! WTF! Now here’s me wondering how many of these dick heads are there on this road or was it the dust and corrugated roads causing brain injury?

That evening we all sat around chatting again about the next days plans. It seems Mick and Joy not happy and plumb for getting off the Gibb River Road asap. The Prendy’s and Douglas’s are enjoying it and want to continue slowly. As it is there are plenty of places we will not be going to, one because of the dogs but also because caravans are not allowed. So we definitely need to see all we can.

“Adventure before Dementia”

I already had a Gibb River road post scheduled, which has just posted. But as I took so much time getting this one together, having forgotten the other one I’m posting anyway. Those who know me understand!!

Pentecost River

Today was the day, Gibb River Road here we come.

Everything was going okay, we broke camp and Trevor went to get his air-conditioning in his car seen to, it had stopped working and it is far too hot to push on without it. Jock and I went to get coffee for the road and Mick and Joy were off doing what they were doing. We all met just out of town and made our way towards Gibb River Road, this is it, this is what we came for.

The scenery on the way was spectacular, so many photos taken and so many photos missed but if we had stopped for every one we would never get anywhere. We all still felt very secure on the bitumen, this is great……..

BANG, RUMBLE, SHAKE, RATTLE, RATTLE AND MORE RATTLE WITH A LOT OF DUST THROWN IN……..Hello Gibb River Road! OMG the rocks were so sharp, the dust EVERYWHERE. 10 minutes in and Mick gets a flat tyre. Oh what fun, ha ha. Actually the road was not quite as bad as I had expected (yet) I don’t know what I expected but already it was fun. Yep I reckon I’m gonna enjoy this adventure.

As we turned into what was to be our free camp for the night Michelle messaged back and said, “do not come up this track, stay where you are”. They had followed the Wiki camps directions and were stuck tight up the track. They had a job to turn around and by then Mick and Joy had decided the best spot was right next to the river, not the recommended 10 mtrs from the river but right next to it!!! My anxiety and panic got the better of me, all I could think about was bloody crocodiles. Go on have a laugh, its the pom in me, camping yes no problems, by Crocs, no bloody way. I made Jock park our van a way back from the bank and kept the dogs inside. Mind you, that was once Jock got us parked up!!! I reckon he had a brain fart when we pulled up, he got out the car which at this time was still on the track, took one look at the river and grabbed his fishing rod and went fishing!!! Keeping in mind, I was in the car with the dogs, engine running, sitting on the track. WTF? He really could not see what the problem was. Reckon all those rocks and dust had addled his brain.

Once set up everyone came to us for the evening fire, I definitely was not going anywhere near that river, especially in the dark. We chatted about our plans for the next day. The original plan was to free camp then in the morning go back to El Questro which we passed on our way. But someone in our group said they would not be backtracking. I was disappointed as I really wanted to see as much as we could on this road. As it was Emma Gorge was also back the way a bit and I was definitely going there. Michelle and Trevor had to return to Kununura to have their air conditioning fixed and would spend the night there. Emma and Ruby would stay with us so we decided Emma Gorge for the morning.

Pentecost River stop

Here we are, we have started along the famous Gibb River Road and boy did we start with a bumpy road. It was big grey crushed rock with some very big sharp ones thrown in and lots of corrugation. Mick found the sharpest rock! we all turned around to help him with his tyre change. 10 minutes in and a flat tyre already, what the hell have we come to? We have radios for communication in the vehicles which is a must here.

We eventually found our first stop by the side of the Pentecost river just next to what will be our first water crossing. A bit of a bugger to get into with a bum steer from Wiki camps, Michelle and Trevor had a hell of a job to turn around up the track just as well we stayed back. So having pulled up right next to the river Jock could not help himself, I really think he had a brain fart because he jumped out the car grabbed his rod and went to fish. Keeping in mind the caravan was not parked up/set up, the car was still running and myself and the dogs still sat in the car. He really could not see what the problem was?? I could not resist taking this photo from the car.

Both Michelle and Joys vans were right next to the river ours was a little back with me being so wary of crocodiles I really was not comfortable there. It was a very picturesque spot and we could watch the river crossings from where we were but the idea there may be crocs did not appeal to me.

As it was we stayed by the river for three nights, I did enjoy it but it was a relief to drive out sight seeing in the safety of our car. Michelle and Trevor had to head back to Kununura to get their car air conditioning fixed it is far too hot to continue without that. So the plan was Trevor and Michelle would keep camp for the day with the dogs whilst Mick, Joy, Emma, Jock and I went to explore Emma Gorge. Michelle and Trevor would either visit the gorge en route to Kununura that afternoon or the next morning on their way back.

On arrival at the Gorge we were told it was a medium walk to the gorge with a bit of climbing! Like buggery, it was a bloody cliff, boulders and a rock climb. Not recommended with replacement joints and back problems!!! You would have to be fit to get to the top of this one. Each stage was numbered, I gave up at no5 and Joy did very well to get to no11. Only Jock , Mick and Emma got to the top no12. Whilst I waited sat on a rock I saw many people return from marker no6 and say, no way! So not for the faint hearted. I have to say I really enjoyed just sitting there soaking up the scenery, that was until I started to think about the return trip. But there were heaps of birds, lovely bright red dragonflies and lots of different butterflies, reckon I had the best deal sitting there in a cool breeze.

It was a long arduous climb back, I was absolutely buggered and by now the heat was getting to me and the flies AND ANYTHING THAT BREATHED!!!!!! By the time I could see the end I was in so much pain I was almost vomiting. I sat on the first bench I found, Jock bought me an ice block, then I drank a cold coke then a coffee. Jock brought the car over to me so I could sit in the air-conditioning, what a relief! Won’t ever be doing that again.

Jock and Emma were pleased they had got to the top and when we got back to camp showed me all their photos.

When we got back to camp Michelle and Trevor headed off back to get the car fixed. We had Emma and Ruby for the night.

After a terrible night of hardly any sleep Jock and I decided to take Emma out exploring. We headed to Home valley station to have a look see as we are contemplating a night there tomorrow. We liked it as soon as we saw it, a little oasis in the middle of whoop whoop. They even had coffee what a bonus. We sat and had a coffee and found out prices for a nights accom for us all. My phone was going mad, obviously there was a signal but only enough to allow messages in as I was unable to message out. We had been told about a hill near by where you can get a signal so we took a drive up there. So glad we did, the view was something else. Took heaps of photos but really do not think they do it justice, it had to be seen.

I got messages out to people to let them know all was well. Our drive back to camp was just as scenic, it really is lovely around here and the rock and scenery changes at every turn,

Michelle and Trevor got back not long after us and we set up a fire for the evening. We had some good laughs and told lots of stories. We all decided we would got to Home valley station the next day and enjoy some electrics and catch up on our washing.

Pancakes for breakfast this morning, gosh its a tough life! We are heading to Kununura so passing into Western Australia. We had to get rid of all our fruit and vegetables and had been told not to take honey into WA or at least declare it. So we boiled up our potatoes because pre cooked veg was ok, we cut up our tomatoes and added a salad dressing.

We stopped at Victoria River roadhouse and had a look at their campsite for future reference, it looked nice and the scenery around there was brilliant. We took the chance to refuel and grab a coffee. This was only up the road from our stop last night.

Once again the scenery as we drove was just brilliant it changes with every turn. I was hanging out of the car window taking photos if we stopped every time I wanted to take a photo we would never get anywhere. We did however stop at a place of interest and took the opportunity to get a photo of all three vans together.

Our next rest stop was at Timber creek, we went to the bakery (for Joy of course) and then headed down to have a look at a boat ramp where we stopped for lunch. There was evidence of crocodiles everywhere with marks on the banks of the river, a crocodile trap, a sign saying, “large crocodile spotted at ramp today” but we did not see any!

Driving over in to Western Australia we had to stop and have caravan fridge/food inspected, they took our honey off of us and luckily everything else was ok to take through. So many Boab trees in this area and the scenery continued to change.

We arrived in Kununurra and booked in to Lakeside camp site. I remember this one, Jock and I stayed here many years ago when travelling from Perth to Darwin. It had not changed much and we got a nice site overlooking the lake.

We stayed two nights to catch up on the usual domestic stuff and we did a day of exploring the area. We found the ord river crossing and decided we would give it a go, my very first water crossing of this trip, I had better get used to it as I have been told there are a few on the Gibb River road. After the initial anxiety of the crossing it really was quite exhilarating. We went to the Zebra rock gallery, where I purchased a lovely little vase, couldn’t afford much else as it was very expensive.

There were a couple of locals outside the supermarket selling Boab nuts that they had carved. I couldn’t resist, the idea of buying local craft from the ones who had carved them. If you buy them in the shops they are around $100 but mine was $20 and although the ones from the shops are very intricate I love mine.

We explored a rocky area that the locals nickname, “little Bungles”. It was a lovely drive around there I could not stop taking photos, I wonder how many photos I will have taken by the end of this trip if this is how I am now.

One of my favourite stops, not a large area but we all pulled around a semi circle and set up. Jock and I absolutely loving this free camping and fires at night.

Mick and Jock were soon fishing in the small waterhole next to us and I sat with Emma to do some craft. Mick soon returned with his first fish a Barramundi Jock was well envious the challenge was on! I think they all fished until dark but no more fish were caught.

It was my turn to fall, backed out of the van and went arse over tit! Just missed the rock sitting by our doorway, I have never seen Michelle run as fast as I did then. Luckily Mick was just returning from fishing and helped Michelle get me to my feet. Mick spent his evening gutting his fish and preparing it for cooking. A great evening was had eating Micks fish and watching the stars.