It was rest day in Mary’s pool free camp so Emma and I got to making the Rocky road for Jocks birthday, we renamed ours, Gibb River Rocky Road. It came out very nice and Emma was excited to keep it as a surprise for Jock. That night Michelle and I got the Baylies and marshmallows out, cooked marshmallows on the fire then dipped them into strawberries and cream Baylies OMG! I did like it but it brought out the alcohol in the Baylies a bit too strong for me so Michelle reluctantly finished it off. As we sat by the fire we chatted about what we would be doing in the next couple of days. We needed to get up in the morning and head for Halls Creek ready for a day out to see Wolfe Creek Crater.
Michelle and Emma had got up early and decorated outside of our van with streamers and balloons as it was Jocks birthday, Emma was very excited and made lots of fuss. Unfortunately we had to take them down as we were on the move but Emma would make sure they went straight back up once we set up again.
Our next stop was Halls Creek, or as Glen and Carol call it Hells Creek! It certainly was a grubby run down old town. Everywhere you looked there were bars on windows and high fences, that said it all really. We drove past the campsite NO THANKYOU. So wiki camps it was we needed somewhere outside of this town. Caroline pool was just outside of town far enough away to feel safe, we were just up the road from the China Wall which is a seam of quartz running through this area. Jock and I went to see it once before when we were in Aus for exchange so did not bother tripping out there for a look. Jock got his Gibb River Rocky Road and we all enjoyed some with a cuppa. Lucky Jock chocolate and Michelle had a roast on for his birthday, god we do it tough on the road. After dinner we all went to bed early as we had to get going early in the morning to drive out to Wolf Creek. Hope we don’t bump in to Mick Taylor!!
Wolfe Creek Crater was a 150km drive down the Tanami road, we made good time and saw some more lovely scenery on the way, most of the land we were driving through was Kidman cattle station. The track up to the crater rim was not far at all and we were soon looking out over this 875m in diameter, 60m deep crater, it looked impressive. Was only discovered in the 40’s.
On our way in we saw some old buildings so we decided to explore them on the way out. Not sure who had lived there or what the “caravan” was used for. Trevor reckons it was something that would have been pulled out to where the cattle drovers were so that food could be prepared for them. I reckon it was the accommodation for the boss having a toilet in there too. What do you think? I will look it up once home.
Abandoned Homestead
Our drive back to camp was uneventful but I am still taken aback by the changing scenery, every turn looks different, Western Australia is certainly a stunning state and we have enjoyed every minute of it.
On leaving Fitzroy Crossing we stumbled on a café!!! So of course we had to stop for a coffee. You seeing a pattern (habit) here? I am glad we did as there was an indigenous man sat in the café and I have been hankering to actually get to talk to a local, mind you he was deep in conversation with someone else. We ordered coffees and found that the café was actually a training café for the Indigenous people, they certainly made a great coffee. The indigenous man caught my eye and invited me over to sit with him! Wow, at last I get to have a chat and what an interesting man he was. His name is Henry Snell and his family was in the Aboriginal documentary film the rainmaker which I will have to watch once home, he has lived in Fitzroy crossing all his life. He goes to the café every morning and likes to have a yarn with the people passing through. He was so friendly and happily had his photo taken.
Michelle ducked into the hardware shop for me and grabbed a crab pot for me to give to Jock for his up and coming birthday. We left Fitzroy crossing and headed for our free camp for the night at Mary’s pool (once again a name I can relate to).
We settled down around the fire for the night and had our usual laughs and discussions. You really can not beat a fire whilst on the road. Emma decided it was time my hair was done, so will clips and bands she got to work!! I loved it but just could not sleep with it in! Reminds me of two other little girls that used to play with my hair, Lauren and Mel.
As we left Willie Creek we headed back into Broome for supplies and a few jobs that needed doing. I took the opportunity to post the post cards to the boys back home( Dylan, Jacob and Asher) we are missing them a lot. We started on the road in the afternoon and stopped at Broome gateway park Roebuck for the night. We were on the road early the next day we had a long drive ahead of us, not much to see on this stretch so may as well get to where we want to be ready for some more sight seeing. These are the kind of views we have become accustomed to waking up to just absolutely stunning and a different one every couple of days. Who needs caravan parks.
Unfortunately Trevor and Michelle had a blow out on their caravan. The message came over the radio, flat tyre. Luckily they were in front of us so we continued to where they had pulled up. Wow we saw remnants of their tyre before we saw them it was absolutely shredded, lucky they have a double axle.
Once in to Fitzroy we looked for a camp outside of town. We found the Old Inn camping. Mmmm certainly old, not many vans there, park where we like, miners accommodation, vehicles etc everywhere. Oh well one or two nights wont hurt at least we have electricity, water and a restaurant. Although once Jock had paid and seen the shenanigans in the bar he was starting to wonder if we should be staying here! Locals being refused alcohol because they were so drunk and they were not going to leave without a bit of swearing and shouting. It all quietened down after that and we settled in. We had been told the food was great so we thought we would trial it. It was packed and we only just got a table, the food was okay but nothing special. I did spot a couple of old vehicles outside the restaurant which I went back to photograph the next day.
Tunnel Creek
We left the vans at the site and headed to Tunnel Creek for the day. Tunnel creek is one of those places we missed on the Gibb River Road and then were told by people we must go see it. Luckily the Great Northern Highway which we were now on runs parallel with the Gibb and Tunnel Creek is actually same distance between the two roads. No dogs allowed mind you so we had a plan afoot. Michelle and Trevor parked up just short of the carpark to Tunnel Creek and had all the dogs whilst Jock and I went in. It was not too big a trek in but we did have to climb over some rocks. I was feeling quite relaxed about the distance and level of walk we were doing until we had to get into the tunnel. Oh yeh I was cocky alright, there is this rock I could sit on, swivel on to get my legs in to the opening and then all I had to do was lower myself down, like getting out of a high vehicle. It was not until I looked back at the opening pleased with myself that the realisation came over me…..how do I climb back up???? Oh well, here now may as well face that when I have to. Needless to say it played on my mind the whole time I was in there. Jock did real well with the closed in space although could not walk the very last bit as the rock came too low for him. We did not even think to take a torch with us so had one part of our walk very dark it was all on sand so not so bad. As soon as we got in there we were faced with either enter the water and walk around a boulder or try to crouch at the side of a wall and walk over rocks. We followed someone around the boulder, easy!
Everywhere we looked it was lovely, we kept wondering how far we should go in for both our sakes but we asked is it worth carrying on and the reply was always yes. So we carried on.
When we got to the second part we could hear the tiny bats that were in there. The odd one would fly but not many thank goodness. This area was where all the stalagmites and stalactites were, wow!
We had to wade through a little water to get to the third part it was beautiful, very quiet and the light was changing as we stood there. I sat with a lady on a rock and chatted for a while, didn’t really want to leave but knew Trevor and Michelle were waiting outside. There was another section as I said before but the rock was almost touching peoples heads so both Jock and I really did not fancy it. We were told nothing much up there except and small opening to outside and some water with a fresh water croc or two in it. So happily we retraced our steps to get out. Problem this time was someone was in front of us in the very dark part and had a torch!! We could see how low the rock was so we hung back so as to not see it. We would both rather walk in ignorance in the dark.
Time to try to get out!! Well, I watched a few people and I definitely could not do it the way they were. I held back and would not attempt it until no one was around. Well…….you know if you laugh you make things worse! I had to think about this, my left leg does not have strength in it to pull me up but my right one is ok (ish) so I had to put my right foot in the foothold grab a piece of rock with my hands and had Jock behind me hoicking me up by my arse. After a couple of attempts and realising this was serious I got my backside on to the edge of the rock I had dropped from…. sorted!! Um no! Now my right leg was up against the rock and I could not swing it around to enable me to stand up. If I did not have two prosthetic hips I could have pulled my knee up to my chest and achieve this but I was not game to go against advice about not pulling my knees to my chest for risk of dislocation. I know, by now you are asking why the hell I am down there?? So is Jock, I’m laughing and he is seriously concerned and trying to get me focused on the job. A man turns up, how embarrassing, he wants to get into the tunnel and I’m blocking the way. He was very nice and helped me to pull my right leg over finally enabling me to swivel and stand up. What a bloody relief, I had visions of people lining up behind me to get out!!
We headed back to Michelle and Trevor and took the dogs into our car. We explained to them about walking in the water around the boulder for easier access and they headed in to Tunnel Creek and we headed back to camp. The scenery on the way back was just lovely, every turn is different.
Michelle and Trevor had a great walk through and saw things we did not!! Especially in the water right next to the boulder where we had waded!!!!!
We left our campsite and headed just up the road to Willi Creek for some free camping and some fishing. Willie Creek is well known for its Pearl farm and tours but just about 200mtrs from the shop we found ourselves a nice little spot to camp for a couple of nights. Not too close to the water, far enough away from them there Crocodiles. Our view was terrible I don’t know how we will manage the next couple of days!
Once we were set up the first thing Jock did was to go fishing. I really do not like him fishing with what lurks in these waters here but he would be up on the rocks so that put me more at ease. Emma came over on sunset and told Michelle and I that we really needed to come see the sunset. So we grabbed our cameras and made our way over the rocks. Wow, it was fantastic.
I had a couple of hours with Emma the next day doing craft. She had all those shells she had collected in Broome and I had bought her a cardboard letter E. First of all we painted it, then Emma arranged and stuck the shells onto it. She will hang it in her bedroom or on her bedroom door, she made a good job of it. Time for a coffee, we found out that Willie Creek pearl farm does coffee. I think it has become a challenge each day to find a coffee, easily done whilst in townships but not so easy out bush especially free camping.
This evening we took our chairs over and sat with Jock, Trevor and Emma whilst they fished. We saw a huge shark having a go at something bloody hell there was some splashing going on then we saw a turtle swim by. Jock and Trevor were not catching anything but small fish which they were placing into a rock pool for bait. Just before sunset we spotted a big crocodile near the opposite bank, up until now we had only seen freshwater crocs this was our first saltwater crocodile better known as a salty. I am glad it was way over and that we were on top of rocks. We kept our eye on it and didn’t see any others, not to say they were not there because apparently there are loads to be seen around here.
The last picture is of the man camped next to us fishing. I love it and wish I had got his address so that I could send it to him. Loved staying at Willie Creek if we are ever in the area again I will come back here.
The boys had had their fishing day and before we knew it it was 4.30am Thursday and time to get up and be ready for transport pickup at 5.30am, Horizontal falls here we come.
We were so excited, we have watched videos of this trip and seen lots of photos and now we were on a bus to catch our flight on a sea plane to the falls. Like everything here, it seems, we were weighed before getting in to our seats. Our pilot was Ben but not the Ben Michelle had met and talked with about doing this trip. There were only 8 of us on this plane and it took about an hour and 20 minutes over some fantastic scenery before we came to the falls. As soon as the pilot could see the falls he flew us over them, twice to make sure each side of the plane got a good view.
We approached the pontoon in Talbot bay and for my first time ever landed on the sea, certainly smoother than on a runway! Michelle and I got off on to the pontoon and just stood there saying, “wow” what a great sight, it was magnificent. They had planes about to take off so we stood and watched those as we made ourselves a cup of coffee. We were just blown away by it all and we had not yet been through the falls. This bay is right at the top of Australia and a long way from anywhere absolutely stunning.
We only had 15 minutes for our cuppa before we were loaded on to a speed boat. This was it, we are off to the falls. Everyone trying to be at the front of the boat Michelle and I picked our way further back and to either side for a good view. The falls were less than 1km from the pontoon so we were soon there. The driver took us up to the first fall to let us look at the power and volume of water being forced through the gap. He approached different ways for all to have a good look and take photos then he took a big run at it and we drove through, omg what a thrill. A little scary as the pass is not really wide but absolutely brilliant what a rush. He then took us back through again and through again, woo hoo! Then he took us to the second fall which has a smaller gap and the water was running out so fast that we could not safely go through it but we were assured that when the tide came back in later we would revisit and go through. He explained to us the height of the water behind the gap and we could see it was at least a metre higher on the other side and gushing out with such force. So he took us back through the other fall, then again and then again for the last time. We were then taken back to the pontoon where they had a full cooked breakfast waiting for us.
Here we go time to swim with the sharks! I was brave for two reasons, first of all putting on a swimsuit and of course the fact we were getting in with these sharks that were getting fed. Its ok, not as bad as it sounds, two cages one fully enclosed the other had not bottom to it so that what ever wanted to swim in could. Comforting!! The sea temperature was not great but not terrible we gingerly got in and were soon right next to these big sharks they are called nursery sharks. They had their stomachs pushed hard up against the fence between us and of course Michelle and I wanted to go one step further and feel their skin. It took a couple of attempts (well they have got a mouthful of teeth you know and they were being fed)! But stroke them we did, they felt very soft and smooth. Feeling very brave now we stroked a couple more being sure to keep our fingers down their stomach as far from the teeth as possible. I swear they were enjoying it and actually had themselves pressed up against there just for that. One thing we did notice was just how salty the sea was, I know sea is salty but never have I known anywhere as salty.
This was the bit of the trip where I felt rushed, we got out of the shark tank and went to get changed, we queued for the hose of fresh water then again for a cubicle. By the time Michelle and I were dressed our boat was waiting to take us sightseeing around Cyclone bay. It was very picturesque and we had rock formations, flora and fauna explained to us. We were show just how high the tide can get by the dark stains on the rock. We looked for the local resident crocodile, he was hiding, probably had a good eye on us! We also saw little bright red crabs, they were everywhere. It really was peaceful and leisurely just what we needed after the rush getting out of the shark tank.
As we approached the pontoon we were told we were off to see the falls again. It was everything as good as the first time and a bit more because this time we got to go through the second falls. Now that was very hairy as it was VERY narrow, he took us through twice then back to the first one to do that again. Not quite sure how many times he took us through but I know the whole boat full were enjoying it we were having a ball. Our hearts sank a little when it was all over, like a kid who had a bag of lollies and had it taken of him. We all quietened down and resigned ourselves to getting back on to the pontoon ready for departure. Mind you the day was not over yet we still had plenty to do. Soft drinks and fresh fruit were on offer as we waited for our flight off the pontoon. That’s when we finally got to meet Ben, the original pilot that Michelle had chatted to at our campsite in Katherine. He was on his way back to work and had given us the information of the company he worked for and the best dates to go to the falls. We had thought he was to be our pilot for the day not realising there were two Ben’s.
Ben
We loaded quietly on to the sea plane sad to leave this all behind. What an experience, it certainly is something we will come back to and would encourage everyone to put on their bucket list. We took off and took our last looks of the Horizontal falls as we flew over them. We had an hours flight to Cape Leveque once again over magnificent scenery.
On dry land again it was now time to hop on to a 4wd bus. We headed straight for The Trochus shell hatchery at One Arm Point although it was not what I expected it was interesting a reef maintenance program. The indigenous owners showed us around with great pride showing us how they were replacing the food they hunt from the surrounding seas. Also selling shells to make money for the local community, the shells had been polished and looked lovely a bit like mother of pearl.
Whale song Cafe at the top of Cape Leveque for lunch. It was a chance to actually chat with those we were travelling with, a good friendly bunch. It was clear that everyone was thinking the same as us and had thoroughly enjoyed their morning. Lunch was chicken and salad or crispy skin salmon for those who liked fish. The views were lovely of the white sand meeting the red rocks of Northern Australia.
Back on the bus we headed to Kooljaman beach for a quick dip (no thanks not for me, chance of sharks with no fence between us and chance of crocodiles, that’s me out). The beach was beautiful, the sand so white with the red rock next to it. By now I had run out of battery on my mobile so could not take any more photos. Michelle’s mobile had also run out but luckily she also had her little camera with her.
On to Beagle Bay, an indigenous community that has some white mans history in their midst. Sacred heart church also known as the Mother of Pearl church it has a lot of history and was built by the Germans that were captured and kept in Beagle bay back in world war one. Aboriginal women decorated the church inside with mother of pearl, cowrie, volute and olive snail shells. It really was something to see, so much work had gone into it, basically mosaic but with shells. Unfortunately the photos of inside are on Michelle’s camera still. But if you google the church you will no doubt see lots of photos of the inside.
Well, that was it, we will now head back to Broome, which we had been heading towards anyway but time to sit back and realax until we get back to camp. What a day. Fantastic we were both on a huge high.
I have been up the hospital and had my splint fitted, it is strange but at least I can get it wet, I was sweating on whether I would be able to swim when on the day trip Thursday. You know if they are offering a swim with the sharks you just have to do it! Everyone just did what ever today, we were all still trying to get vans and washing organised.
Tonight we headed down to main beach to watch the phenomena Staircase to the Moon. It happens when the moon is rising and reflect off the salt flats. Luckily we are in Broome at the right time for it. We sat on the beach for quite some time waiting, Michelle and Emma collected shells and rocks. There was also a market so Michelle and I had a wander about it. Nothing much there really but lots of food.
When the moon came up we could not do it justice with photos, none of us knew how to really capture it, even a photographer next to us said it is hard, so this is the best we could do to show you what it was like.
Next day Jock and Trevor headed off early on their fishing trip, they would be gone all day. So what do girls do when left alone?? Go shopping! Michelle, Emma and I headed into town with our three dogs for a day of mooching about and drooling over pearls we cant afford. Not all of you know that due to a few medical problems I do actually use a walker when wanting to walk about town. I try not to get it in photos but just had to get some pics on the shopping trip because I used it to keep my fur babies off the hot pavement. We had a good time until we stopped for lunch, we were not expecting the café in town to be full of sand flies. Emma and I were bitten to death and anyone who knows sand flies knows they drive you mad for days, my legs were covered. We did manage to purchase a few gifts for taking home.
The boys arrived home quite late and knackered, they had had a brilliant day and brought home a fair bit of fish. Jock cooked his up and had it for dinner. Michelle and I had to retire early as we would be up at 4.30am in the morning ready for our day trip to The Horizontal Falls, to say we were excited is an understatement.
We booked in to Tarangau campsite at Cable Beach, so strange to be amongst a lot of people caravan to caravan. Michelle and Trevor are not next to us but over the other side of the campsite. We were lucky to get these spots everything is so booked out. We now have a week to get all the washing done, clean out the fridge and buy new supplies. First thing I did once set up was go to AE at the hospital. We were there quite a while but they were so organised and friendly. Result, an Avulsion fracture, not just a fracture, the complicated one! Typical. I have a 30 degree temporary splint on but have to see an OT monday for a proper splint that will be on for at least 8 weeks!! They are going to arrange a check up in Kununura on our way through there. I will just ring them when I know I will be there. No one felt like cooking tonight so we headed up to Cable beach takeaway and sat outside with the dogs. The food is really good and prices very reasonable.
Emma woke us for the traditional Sunday pancakes. We made our booking for the Horizontal Falls, we go on Thursday, the boys have decided on a days fishing trip on Wednesday. We enquired about a camel ride on cable beach but they have a weight restriction and I do not cut it, nor Michelle or Trevor the only two that could go are Jock and Emma. Apparently ideally 85kg cut off for an adult, so hands up who is under 85kg?? So camel rides have to wait until Alice Springs or Ayres Rock, no weight restrictions there. All we were going to do today was drive about and explore Broome, we went to the wharf to suss out if they could fish off there and drove a dirt track along the coastline.
One evening we took a drive to Cable beach to watch sunset. We drove onto the beach to find heaps and heaps of cars and the area for the camel rides. So glad we did not get to go on a camel because the romantic photo they advertise with was not what I was seeing. We drove way up the beach until there were not many cars. We soon found out why, yep the nudist part!! We drove past a bloke and Michelle said. “well isn’t that a great idea” she saw his two wine glasses he was carrying but alas he was naked and she had not realised. ha ha ha The dogs loved their time on the beach it was the first time this trip that they got to be off lead and run free. They could not go near the waterline, which was way out anyway, because of salt water crocs. We also had to keep our eye on the birds, some are big enough to carry them off. The sunset was magnificent.
Oh no Paul, he’s been caught again!
No sooner had the sun gone down we turned around to find the moon coming up behind us, don’t think I have ever done that before.
A sad day, what a brilliant time we have had on the Gibb. We have to keep telling ourselves that we have more adventures to come before we are home. Trevor and Michelle got up early and went out to Windjana Gorge, Trevor was so pleased he took our advice, he loved it. But alas we had to move on to Derby, the end of the Gibb River Road. It would be just an overnight stop in Derby as we needed to get to Broome, one because Trevor has his van booked in as his batteries are all dead and another I am going to have to go and see a doctor about my finger, it really is very sore and I am convinced it is broken.
It wasn’t a long drive to Derby so it gave us some time to explore. On our way we stopped off at the Boab Prison Tree and the longest water trough in the world.
There were so many birds of prey on this part of the road as well as plenty of other birds, some just stay at the side of the road as you pass by and look as if to ask who you looking at? If there is anyone reading this that loves birds, the Gibb River Road is for you.
Once we had set up camp we went out for an explore around town. We went to a gallery to look at the Aboriginal art as well as art from the people who own the gallery. When I saw this picture every hair on my neck stood up!!! Now is it just me or……..this is how the Aboriginals draw their spirit relations. I had to go and ask the women in there about them, I also showed her my photo. The women in there were taken aback and thought the same as me. Could it have been?? Yes or no it makes a good story.
Yeh I know, you have all been back to check out my previous photo haven’t you you?? So its not just me! The Gallery was brilliant, Indigenous people just turn up at the gallery when they please, paint and they go up for sale. A great way for them to make money. There were many things I could have purchased but as Michelle and I are going on the day trip to Horizontal falls we really had to keep a tight reign on things.
Carved Boab nut
We drove around Derby, there really wasn’t too much to see so we had a drive out to the Jetty, we had been told there was great fishing there. As we pulled up we spotted Emma and Michelle so had an ice cream with them as we checked out the area. There were two guys on the Jetty catching mud crabs, just dropping the baskets in and 5 minutes later pulling in big crabs. Shame Jock didn’t have his rod on him.
Quite a sombre day really, trying to stay positive about the rest of our trip but missing the Gibb River Road already. My last photo in Derby sort of sums up our mood
But hey, no work tomorrow and lots more adventures to come. Won’t be home until September!
Oh dear, we are all a little off as this will be our last place of interest on the Gibb River Road. But excited because we have been given a tip to go to Windjana Gorge at dusk and watch the freshwater crocs feeding on bats. As we drove the scenery changed so much, this really is a fascinating drive. There were rock named things like ‘Grumpy old man’ and ‘Queen Victoria’ and I have to say as you are driving towards them they certainly do take on these shapes.
We arrived at our free camp, nothing special just a big open space but only 1k from the turn off to Windjana Gorge. We had time to have a rest before heading out to the Gorge, Trevor was not up to it so said he would have the dogs and we could all go in one car. Whilst I was resting I looked up and saw this on my bathroom door, on inspection as to where the light was coming from etc we could not explain it, very strange!!! Yeh okay quite a few hairs did go up on the back of my neck.
When we arrived at the Gorge we were all getting out of the car and saying, “wow” it was just so impressive, this 350 million year old reef. The walk through was fascinating and we soon realised everyone else was aware of the bat frenzy.
It took a while to walk the small walk to the water because there was so much to take in, we were all just in awe of the whole thing. Everyone was full of chatter and excitement, some had seen it all before and were excited for us to see it. As soon as we saw the water we saw freshies, they were all facing the same way and lined up some late comers slowly got into formation and we found our spot to watch the show.
As we waited it got darker and darker so unfortunately we could not get photos of the spectacular, it was like something from a David Attenborough documentary absolutely fantastic. We heard the bats coming and then we could see them, thousands upon thousands circling above the pool. So many that we could hear the wind in all their wings like a rushing wind sound. They started to dive down for water a few at a time, we could hear them hitting the water for a drink and could hear the crocs snapping their jaws trying to get a feed. A couple of crocs were definitely lucky and got their dinner. When it was over everyone just stood there trying to take in what they had just witnessed. Absolutely fantastic we were all on a high, which was just as well because we now had to walk out in the dark!
We would not usually drive these roads at night but it was a case of having to so Michelle took it easy. We came across cattle on the road, we had a bird fly and almost hit the screen and a couple of Kangaroos hopping up the road. We had a fair bit of laughing on the way back to camp and all still on a high. We had decided that although Trevor would not see the crocs jumping for their food he really had to take a drive out tomorrow morning. Around the fire that night we did nothing but chat about the Gorge and what we had seen. Trevor decided he had better go see it himself in the morning before we leave.
Douglas's Downunder 