Monthly Archives: October 2019

We were up early the morning we were heading up to Nhulunbuy we had a lot of driving to do to get us there in time for the start of the Garma Festival. The roads were not too bad, very corrugated and very dusty, red bull dust, if you have ever encountered red bulldust you will know the go but if not, it is very fine red dirt and fills holes and makes it look like there is no hole but you certainly know about it if you hit one. It did not take too long to identify these bull dust filled holes but still we hit a couple. Visibility was horrendous, if a truck came the other way we would just pull off the road and let it by then let the dust settle. We would stay back from Trevor enough to keep us out of their dust but still people would overtake, absolute nut cases because there is no way they could see what was coming because of the dust we were creating.

We had to stop for cattle crossing, wild horses, Donkeys and the odd Kangaroo. Actually we were surprised at how few Kangaroos we saw, years ago you would see hundreds of them along the outback roads. First fuel stop was the Mainoru store, out here you fuel up at every opportunity and bonus nice coffee available. As we continued there were ant hills everywhere first of all Magnetic ant hills way back off the road then right next to the road were the cathedral ant hills, some were huge.

The scenery changed from tree lined road to views right out over the bushland. We stopped at a lookout, if we had had the time we would have stopped there for the night it was stunning.

Along the road we saw lots of abandoned vehicles, some upside down and obviously from accidents and some just broken down and left there. The amount of tyres along the road was incredible some were completely shredded, no wonder with the state of some of the road. We just took it easy and watched for the sharp rocks we had so many people pass us. Idiots!

Our next fuel stop was at the settlement of Bulman we had a phone signal there so took the opportunity to phone Joy and wish her a happy birthday, it was her 70th. We had brought balloons etc with us to celebrate but it was her and her husband that ended leaving the Gibb river road before us and headed home early. We checked out Wiki camps and found our stop for the night, it was a gravel pit a lovely big open space in the trees all to ourselves. No sooner had we stopped a fire had been lit, the best thing about free camping, the camp fires. We all sat about and reminisced over the days drive we had loved the whole experience and our excitement was obvious, tomorrow we would arrive in Nhulunbuy.

The night before Michelle and Trevor had to fly down to Brisbane for Jim’s wedding we met Grant and Sue Ellen at a restaurant called Seafood on Cullen. My initial thought was it would be a waste of money for me as it is a set price for a smorgasbord well I soon changed my mind, I loved all I had and Jock certainly had the rest of my share. It is a lovely restaurant and I would recommend it to anyone. Actually it was nice to be in nice clean respectable clothes on a night out in a nice clean restaurant. This trip has been so dusty and we are always covered in red dirt and here we are all brushed up and presentable made a nice change.

Michelle spent all of the next day packing for their trip and making sure everything set for leaving the van for a few days. Their flight was early hours so Jock got them to Darwin airport for 12.00 midnight. They would arrive very early Friday morning, go to the wedding Saturday then fly back up to Darwin Sunday arriving late evening, it was such a rush for them and they were completely knackered. Jock and I on the other hand were nice and relaxed having had all that time to do nothing although we readied ourselves for breaking camp, our drive to Nhulunbuy was fast approaching. Whilst Emma was away with mum and dad I had gone out for a drive and added a hat to an ant hill we had spotted, Emma would laugh every time we passed it as it was being built next to an old farm gate and it looked like it was leaning up against the gate with its elbows resting on top. We called it Harriet but she ended up being called Henry Snell as it really did look like Henry’s pose(look back to Fitzroy Crossing and you will see what I mean). Anyway the hat was added for Emma so on our last drive past she would be surprised by it.

On our last night in Noonamah we all went out for a meal at the Noonamah pub a nice country town pub and good meals. It was nice to have that time with everyone before we left them and to say thank you to Chris and Lucy for their hospitality. Inside the pub entrance there was a big replica of a Brahman bull, why I don’t know but it was pretty cool. It was sad thinking of leaving them all they had all been good company, Oliver their baby son was the star of the night, such a lovely little boy.

Next day we packed up and headed for Katherine, it was about there we would turn on to the Central Arnhem land highway all dust and dirt again. Noonamah was a pretty rural area, I feel I should have taken more photos of the area but I am sure we will return one day.

Of course the last thing to do was to drive past Harriet so Emma could say goodbye to her. She laughed and laughed when she saw Harriet with her hat on and of course had to stop for a photo.

Litchfield park is not too far from Darwin and well worth a visit, Jock and I had been before but there is so much to see we did not get to see it all last time decided we would go and took Michelle and Emma with us for a day out. Trevor had to have a day off. The drive out there was lovely and before we knew it we were seeing lots of magnetic termite mounds, these termite mounds are the only place in the world to be found, not just in Litchfield park but in the north of the Northern Territory. They build very narrow mounds so that when the sun is at its hottest right above it shines on the least area of the mound, pretty clever hey? There were hundreds of them and they seemed to be in pockets scattered here and there. We also saw what are called cathedral termite mounds they are huge and very old. All very fascinating.

All the water holes were lovely my favourite being Buleys rockhole people were swimming in these rock holes as they cascaded down the rocks. I felt at ease watching as I felt no crocodile could get here and with all the rock around its unlikely they would bother. As this area is crocodile country I am very wary. But this place was just lovely and everyone was enjoying the cool water as it was a very hot day.

We did not spend too long at each place as we wanted to show Michelle as much as possible. There were waterfalls with water holes to swim in, unfortunately none of us had bought swimmers so did not get in. I would not have anyway I am not that brave, yes the water holes have been checked for crocs but what if one slipped in just after inspection?? No thank you! Wangi falls was lovely and everyone was enjoying their swim, we walked around the boardwalk for prime view of the falls and spotted the millions of bats hanging in the trees, yuk!

We also visited Tolmer falls and Florence falls they were all lovely, a couple we could not get down to as it was too far to be walking down and then to get back up again but we got a good view of everything from where we stood. Michelle, Jock and Emma did go closer to a couple but I stayed at the top.

We had a great day and wished we had longer there. There is a campsite near to it so I think on any return trip to this area we will camp there and really explore the surroundings.

If there is one place you have to visit when in Darwin it is the Mindle Markets. In the evening before dusk wander about the many stalls then just before sunset grab some food and sit on the beach and watch the sunset. That is if you can decide what food to buy, you have SO many choices, vegan, Asian, Greek, Indian, Pizza what ever you want, even road kill!!!!!

Most stalls are hand made items and beautiful things I could have spent a fortune. We stumbled upon one stall that had a familiar face behind it, books and talking books at that, we had been looking for talking books to listen to whilst on the road. It was Monte Dwyer, he was a news reader, journalist and now author. We had a good chat with him about the content of his books and he told us some funny stories. We bought a few of his books and all his talking book series. People watching is at a premium here so many quirky outfits or extreme coloured hair along with lots of different fashions and people. I find people watching fascinating I sometimes wish I could talk to the people and hear their stories.

Our car was due a service so we booked it in whilst we had the time in one town. Sue Ellen met up with us for a coffee and took us in to the city to the land council to purchase our permits for Arnhem land. Sue Ellen has acquired 5 tickets for us all to go to the Garma festival up in Nhullumby, Arnhem land. We can not wait, what an experience that will be, we feel so priveledged. We honestly do not know much about it just that we will experience the Aboriginal culture at its best. Once our car was ready to pick up Jock headed back to camp in it and Michelle and I went in her car, she needed something from Bunnings. On our way back to camp we kept passing a sign saying, Didgeridoo Hut so decided it was time we stopped for a look. It was lovely but the paintings and didgeridoo’s were far too expensive for us. I spotted a snake in an enclosure, I asked the girl if it was tame and she said it certainly was and would we like to hold it? Well, anyone who knows me knows at this point I would generally start running! But both Michelle and I had been pushing our boundaries this trip and I decided this was one I was going to brave out………OMG! I did not believe I was about to do this, I encouraged Michelle to also agree to hold the snake after all it was a pet and had never bitten anyone. That’s what kept going around in my mind, I felt my legs quiver as the girl handed me the snake……..WHAT AM I DOING?? Then I was calm, well, for a second as it just lay in my arms (yes it was that big) then it tried to slither up near my face……..SHIT! Ok I stayed relatively calm, still smiling at Michelle who by now was not sure at all. In the end I can honestly say I would hold this snake again, she was lovely and felt so warm. When we left the hut we felt pretty good about ourselves another challenge overcome, we could not wait to show the photos to Jock and Trevor they would never have believed us if we had not had photographic evidence.

Chris and Lucy were very good allowing us to set up at their place as they already had their parents in their huge motorhome and their friends in their off road trailer sitting in their driveway. We set up outside the fenced area as there was an old grumpy dog inside that would not get along with our dogs. We had a lovely set up, certainly good enough for the two weeks we were there.

Noonamah is very close to Humpty Doo, somewhere Jock and I remember from many years ago although I have to say much bigger we probably would not have recognised it if it wasn’t for the boxing croc! A very large statue of a crocodile up on its back legs with the two front legs in boxing gloves. Our first visit was in to the Darwin visitors centre to gather information as to what we may do this two weeks. As we approached Darwin I was blown away, it is huge! There were high rise buildings and I did not recognise anywhere, it is very sad to see it like this, it was such a small city many years ago. Even Jock was shocked and he had been here only 10 years ago this was one of his favourite places but not any more, what a shame.

In the evenings we would go around to where everyone else sat on the driveway to have happy hour. Everyone was so friendly, one night Sue Ellen (Trevor’s other cousin) and her partner Grant came over and Grant brought all his gear to give us some entertainment for the night, he is a great singer. We had a great night, bbq, entertainment, karaoke, dancing and even a conga line.

Most nights after dinner we would lay back and watch the sky, a couple of nights the moon gave us a good show with spooky rings around it. We saw the international space station go over and numerous satellites, we could see millions of stars with no town lights about. And it was mine and Emma’s mission to spot at least one shooting star per night.

Michelle, Emma and I had a great day out on the town which after the remote places we had been was very nice. We did not really need anything it was just really a look see but of course as soon as we spotted an Op shop we were in there and buying!! I got a lovely new expensive top for a couple of dollars and Michelle and Emma bought items. In the cheap shop we decided to try a few hats and masks on, as you do on a girls day out! It was a great relaxing therapy day for us all.

Jock went fishing with all the men one morning, they were all keen fishermen so it was good for Jock and Trevor to get away from camp with other males for the day. Michelle Emma and I went to meet up with a cousin of Michelle’s called Kathy, she lives here in Darwin.

After such a great day out on the Lake we had to return to our vans, it was then we all decided we needed to pack up next morning and move being cramped in like this was just shit. It was our shortest move yet about 3km up the road! On our way in we had seen people free camping so we headed there, at that time of the morning most had left so there was plenty of room. Had we realised how packed the campsite was we would have parked here in the first place. So now with lovely scenery about us and plenty of space we settled in for a nice relaxing day. Michelle read her book and I did some craft with Emma, Trevor relaxed after the full day yesterday as did Jock. In the evening the fire was lit and we discussed the next days movements, we are now heading for Darwin. The fire was a bit special tonight because we had, without realising, found wood that was sandlewood, god it smelt great.

Our move the next day took us to Victoria River Roadhouse via Timber Creek this meant we left Western Australia today which is very sad it really has left an impression on me it is absolutely beautiful. We headed to the roadhouse as it was the last game for the state of origin that night and Jock and Trevor fancied watching the game. As it was it was a great idea, Michelle and I spent our night people watching, me more so. I was fascinated with the local characters. In walks this very tall, very old man obviously a farmer, he had an eye patch but that was not the first thing to take my attention it was his very high hat! I could not stop staring, he had spurs on his boots and then someone else came in behind him, good jeans and a white shirt and of course the hat! Turns out this man in jeans is the biggest property owner in the area and is a squillion heir. Jackaroos then followed, one very young one that made me feel very old, he looked like he should still be at school. An aboriginal Jackeroo who looked very smart not sure he had been out mustering that day. Then there was this bloke sitting on a stool, obviously a local, he was our entertainment for the night. He was shouting at the screen and really got into the game coming out with some really funny comments. Apparently he is usually very blue with his language because he was asked why he was so toned down with his language and he told his friends that there were ladies and a child present so not appropriate which was very considerate of him. I have to say, I do wonder how funny he could have been with the bad language. NSW won so we were not impressed.

Monbullo Homestead near Katherine was to be a two day stop for us, two days of driving was enough and Michelle and Emma wanted to go on a trip to see Katherine Gorge. The rest of us didn’t go because we had been before. We all went to coffee club in the afternoon for a coffee before we went shopping to replace our supplies.

Next stop Harriet Creek as soon as we were set up Michelle made us scones in the weber and very nice they were too. God we do it tough! Our plans for the next day were that Jock and I would stay with the vans and dogs whilst Michelle and Trevor went for a drive around the Kakadu National park. Jock and I have been before and were not worried about going again, from memory it is a beautiful place, from stories on Michelle and Trevor return it is very run down and nothing like we remember so just as well we did not go, we would rather remember it as it was.

Our next stop was Darwin, well near Darwin at Trevor’s relations house in Noonamah. We were to stay here for two weeks as Michelle and Trevor had to fly back to Brisbane for Jim’s wedding. Adelaide River was our stop en-route just a quick coffee and lunch, I spotted the pioneer cemetery and had to go for a look see. If only these graves could talk I would love to hear all the stories from way back then.