Monthly Archives: November 2019

This was my view when I woke up in the morning, I started to think about going home. I will miss these kind of views almost every day different, although I don’t think the view of Uluru can be beaten.

Not far to drive today, we could take our time, 200ks to Alice Springs. You know when you are close to Alice Springs when you get a certain rock formation, the McDonald ranges surround Alice and the range is unmistakeable. I have been to Alice a couple of times and I do not know why but I really like it. There is nothing very special about it apart from the fact of its remoteness, I have always found the locals friendly and welcoming.

Ti Tree roadhouse was coffee stop today a chance to refuel and have a quick break. Had to take a picture of Trevor and Michelle’s clean car and van, once on our way to Birdsville it will be all dirty again until we get home.

On arriving in Alice Springs we decided to go and have a look at Blatherskite Park, their showgrounds, it advertised powered camping and many other facilities. As soon as we saw it we decided we were definitely staying, it was a huge area very green and very open, just lovely. We will certainly remember this for any return trip. We were not allowed open fires but we could use the “Pig”. For those of you outside of Australia a “pig” is a pot belly fire pit that stands on legs and can be used to cook on. So a pig fire was better than no fire. We sat around it for a while and did some star gazing but it was getting far too cold to be outside so we all retired early.

The next morning it was still bloody cold, all our winter wear was pulled out which included a onesie I had brought with me for a bit of a joke. This morning was the morning, I climbed into the onesie and walked outside to have breakfast. Emma just laughed and laughed, she had never seen me in anything like it before. All I can say is I think I was the warmest person having breakfast it worked a treat.

We sat down over breakfast to decide what we would do with our time in Alice. We had gotten here in time for the Henley on Todd regatta, boat races that takes place on the dry river bed. Trevor needed a day of rest before that so Michelle and I reassured the boys that we could entertain ourselves today with a trip into town to search out the quilt shops. (Of course we had the addresses already) Another activity for Michelle, Emma and I was a Camel ride, my third but their first, we would leave that until later, maybe the sunset ride.

Again we stayed a couple of days at Manbulloo Homestead just outside of Katherine. We took the opportunity to do some washing and clean the car and caravan, it has not looked this clean for ages. As we were heading to Alice Springs on bitumen road we thought it was worth cleaning everything up. We headed out all rested and ready for more adventure just look at how clean everything came up.

It was strange being back on busy roads with the road trains and passing through townships here and there with no dust up ya nostrils!!! Wow when we stop we wont even have to clean out the van before we can go inside and sit down, what a treat! Don’t get me wrong it has all been fun and at the time we just took it for granted that that was what we had to do but not to have to do it every time we pull up for a while will be bliss. We stopped for lunch at the Three Ways roadhouse it has changed somewhat from when we were last here many years ago. The road train was still painted on the side of the roadhouse so I got Emma to pose on the bulbar as I had gotten Scott and Jamie to do many years before. It brought back lots of good memories. I could not believe passing cyclists on the road, they have to just a little bit barmy surely. Mind you, we did pass some on the Gibb River road too!

Before we found ourselves a site for the night we popped in to have a look at The Devils Marbles which is an area covered in what look like oversized marbles. Just this one area of these rocks, we did not bother getting out to look at them because we had had a long day and needed to pull up before dark. Jock and I had great photos of these from years ago when you could just walk among them, now they are fenced off and a resort built behind them. This time we just took some photos from the roadside. Won’t ever go back there would rather hold on to the old memories of the site. Worth a visit if you have never been before.

We found our free camp for the night it was just a rest area at the side of the road we parked up in such a way that we put our fire on the other side of our vans and our outlook was just bush. We couldn’t have a big fire but it was a good one. When we were about to go to bed I worried that the fire was still quite aglow so I sat a bit longer and Michelle joined me. Then when we decided it was too cold to stay out so thought we might cover the fire with dirt!!!!!! DO NOT EVER DO THIS! Michelle got a shovel and proceeded to put dirt on the fire, omg the smoke it created, it was billowing. She put another couple of shovel loads on hoping to smother it and before we knew it we were heading for our vans running away from the smoke. As we got to the other side of the vans we realised the whole car park had been filled with the smoke, we could not stop laughing and jumped in our vans and shut the door.

What a sad day, we were all a little down this morning, if we could have we would have stayed here longer, Jock and I have talked about coming here for the winter, although it is hot there is always a cool breeze. We dragged our heels a bit as we packed up, Trevor had to sort out some batteries before we left so we had plenty of time. Michelle brought us all over a coffee from the Lodge and we got in our cars and drove off.

Back on the dirt tracks, red bull dust and corrugation. I suppose being back on these roads helped lift our spirits as we had missed moving and having big fires. We saw lots of wild donkeys and horses along the Central Arnhem Road. We got a fright when we hit a deep bull dust covered hole!! The caravan bumped behind us and then we stopped……. What the hell had just happened? I jumped out to look….. OMG the caravan had come unhooked and the tow bar was laying in the dirt. I called Michelle and Trevor on the radio and they came back to us, Michelle went to the last corner to warn other drivers and Trevor and Jock got about hooking it back up. As Jock went to grab his high lift jack a police van pulled up at the side of us going the other way, there were two policemen one with his arm hanging out the window, he just said “Oops”. They asked if we needed help but the boys had it all in hand. Thank god Jock bought that high lift jack, it did the job with ease and we were soon back on the road but every time we hit a bump we would cringe it had given us such a fright.

We were soon back on our way, we came across one area that was on fire, probably the locals burning off. We saw water buffalo, lots of magnetic ant hills and some Eagles. We enjoyed our nights with a good fire and stayed in the same spots on the way back as we did on our way to Nhulumbuy all very peaceful.

(big sigh)back to Katherine for a night or two before heading down the centre of Australia stopping at a few places on the way to Birdsville. Birdsville being our last point of interest before heading home, it is all getting far too close, maybe we should just stay on the road.

We stayed in Nhulumbuy for another three days so that we could go and explore the area. Nothing was too far away but everything was either track or beach driving to get to. We had a great couple of days. First day we spent checking out Wanuway/ Cape Arnhem so pretty, a little like being on fraser Island, especially when we got bogged. Yep FOUR times!! The sand was so fine and so deep and unfortunately Jock had not put his recovery tracks in the car so it was hard work getting our big heavy Toyota Landcruiser out. Michelle picked up drift wood and packed it under the wheels and we were off.

Even driving between these places was an adventure and interesting. The dogs got to have a run on the beach, Emma got to go searching for shells and I think Trevor was like myself just in awe and taking it all in. Jock had a fish when possible but did not catch anything, not in one place long enough.

It was a great day, we saw the odd tourist but in all we had these beaches to ourselves. On our way back to camp we saw a sign for a lookout so we headed up the hill. There was a tower to climb up so taking it easy we all got to the top and were rewarded with a great view our over Nhulumbuy.

The other sites we visited were just as spectacular, Maccassons beach, Turtle beach and little Bondi. One of the beaches had rubbish washed up on the beach, it was a terrible shame there was so much from thongs(flip flops), chairs, plastic bottles of all descriptions, fishermen’s nets and hooks, polystyrene, you name it is was there. The locals clear it every 3 months and the rubbish is studied to see where it is coming from. Apparently there is a current that brings it in and if it misses this beach it is dumped on a beach in Indonesia. A sad sight to see.

One of the days we took a picnic and sat on the beach most of the day just taking in the scenery. Emma and Michelle went rock pooling, Jock was fishing, Trevor was laying in the shade under a tree and I was just watching the day go by as I minded the dogs. I was day dreaming about when we would be back hoping that would be next year.

Michelle, Trevor and Emma headed in early today as they wanted to participate in the early morning Thai Chi with Jack Thompson. We headed in a little later and met them for breakfast. After breakfast we went over to have a coffee, oh no they were closed and there was a sign on the hatch saying they had run out. Michelle and I were devastated and Emma pretty unhappy she had to spend the rest of the day with us with no coffee lol. Michelle and I headed down to the women’s only healing area. Trevor went to the Yidaki healer Djalu and had some time chatting to him and a healing. And Jock and Emma wandered about what stalls were left.

There were no phones or photos allowed at the healing, here secret women’s business is very secret. Mind you a man was found trying to come in, he was deaf and did not understand why it was a closed area. He went very red when he found out but he gave us a laugh. The area was enclosed with hessian, as you walked in there was a huge mat to sit on, there were two old baths sunk in to the ground with hot water from the fire being poured in. Also there were leaves, about 4 different kinds boiling in the water and then added to the baths. Who ever wanted to could take a turn getting into the baths and local ladies massaged the leaves all over their bodies, concentrating on pacific areas if told there was a problem there. Michelle got in and enjoyed her session, I could not get in as there was no way I would have been able to get out with my knees and hips. The ladies were great, they got me to sit over my walker, bum hanging out and massaged the leaves into the base of my spine then turned to my broken finger and my knees. It was relaxing and most definitely helped for a while obviously helping the inflammation. I got to talk to one of the local young ladies for a while she was very informative and talked about having more facilities for the disabled next Garma, she herself was in a wheel chair. We also got to witness a couple of younger ladies having fertility healing, it is said that by 6 months after this they would be pregnant. They sat with legs apart with certain leave smoking in a pot and a towel over their lap to keep the smoke in. It was a lovely morning, the ladies were all very friendly and could not help enough. Yet another privilege of the Garma.

We wandered about after lunch, chatted to people and waited for Bunngal time. This was the closing ceremony, Jack Thompson was up on the stage and the dancers danced and danced and danced it was fantastic. Apparently when they have a celebration or especially a death in the village they can do these dances all night long. We did not see all our little friends this evening, just one and a couple of new faces. The kids are so damn cute you could just swoop them up and take them home. The elder in charge of the ceremony kept saying over the microphone, just one more dance, just one more dance, I think he was as sad as we were to see this festival come to an end.

We were all laughing at the end of each dance waiting for him to say, once more! But alas it did come to an end and the flags were all removed ceremoniously, so sad but on a high for all that we had experienced

I cannot leave Garma until I have introduced you to the lovely lady Sue Ellen who made this dream come true for us all. I will be forever indebted to her for inviting us and introducing us to her beautiful Yulongu family. We learnt so much and I know that one day we will return. Thank you Sue Ellen.

This morning Michelle and I were up very early, when I say very early we are talking 4am!! This morning we had the privilege of being invited to a traditional aboriginal crying ceremony. Aboriginal female elders cry in the day as the sun begins to rise, cry for their land and their people, mourn and comfort and call to each other. It was a ladies only morning and we sat silent in the darkness waiting for the ceremony to begin. When it did it was fascinating, eerie, spiritual, like something I have never experienced. Eunice had told us that what they are doing is airing their woes, their hopes and speaking to their ancestors. It is one of the greatest honours to be invited to a crying ceremony and it certainly felt very special, we felt like one with the aboriginal community. This is exactly what the Garma is all about trying to show the white Australian that we are one and all should be treated with the greatest respect. Everyone left quietly I think it had had some profound affect on us all. No cameras or recordings were allowed. It was mostly ladies at breakfast this morning with it still being so early in the morning. Michelle and I ate breakfast then headed back to camp to pick up Jock, Trevor and Emma. Once at camp Sue Ellen called to say not much different happening at Garma today and advised us to go exploring and be back at Garma for the Bunngal.

Melville Bay was where we headed to explore, there and the town wharf, someone had told Jock and Trevor fishing was good at the town wharf. We found the yacht club and boat ramp. We saw the ugly mine that was now being dismantled thank goodness, what an eye sore. But we had it explained to us that Nhulumbuy would not be the little town it is without it. It was the mining owners that built the town structure and it has benefitted the locals greatly. But nice to see it is going. The town wharf was well set up for people to picnic and fish and although it was right next to the shipping port it had a lovely outlook.

Time flew, we had had a great explore but it was time to head back to the Garma for the evening Bunngal, there is no way we wanted to miss that. Once again a great evening of dance. We decided not to stay for dinner but went back to camp and ordered pizza for a quiet night by the van. Tomorrow is last day of Garma, can’t believe it has gone so fast. It is going to be sad to say goodbye to this experience.

Trevor was well enough to come along to Garma today he enjoyed wandering about the different stalls, he was particularly interested in the Rio Tinto stall and had a good yarn to them. More areas were set up today with the ladies teaching the Yulongu language, weaving, spear making and all the kids activities. Emma put her hand on a large cloth that all children were signing, she drew around her hand then coloured it as she wished as long as she put her name to it. She also had a go at the rather large bubble hoops. The male healing elder had a session to explaining the healing qualities of the Didgeridoo, Yidaki healing and talked about their beliefs and hopes for the future. He also showed us the Didgeridoo’s that his family make and sell, they are just lovely and we watched them carving them. Whilst he was talking Jack Thompson joined us all and he had a Yidaki healing, it sent goose bumps down my arms. Jack Thompson is at Garma every year, he has a lot to do with the yulongu people and has been adopted as one of their own. Once the yadaki healer had finished he invited anyone who would like a Yidaki healing to come forward, not one person was going forward so I did. It was very spiritual, cant really explain it, you know you are participating in something that is millions of years of tradition for another culture and they are open to sharing this with you. I am so pleased I went forward, another out of my comfort zone experience, as I keep saying anyone who really knows me knows I do not go forward and volunteer for things in front of crowds.

By now it was lunch time so we headed for the dining area. Jock had been told that someone he knew and had worked with was also at Garma and we saw him in the dinner hall. They had a bit of a chat and then we met up with Grant and had our lunch followed by a lovely coffee from the little coffee hut.

Weaving was our next stop, Jock, Emma and I sat down to have a go. Jock and I made earrings and Emma made a bracelet. I have to admit Jocks earrings came out better than mine (but don’t tell him that). I reckon we were there a good hour and half if not two hours, the bunch of ladies sat with us were all good humoured and I loved that the Aboriginal girls called me Yappa. Yappa is sister, it is what another women calls you in Yulongu culture. We learnt a few words whilst we were there, gurtha is fire, yo is yes, yaka is no, yothu is child and yindi is mother. Waawaa I think was father. Over the years I hope to learn more of their language because the idea of coming to Garma again is high on my wish list.

Once again we had had a great day and it was time for the evening Bunngal, we headed to the same spot as last night and again had the children come see us. The dancing was as amazing as the night before, we were mesmerised. Jock got up and joined the dancers as did Emma actually a lot more people were up and dancing tonight, you just got up as you felt and copied the dancers. I don’t think we will tire of watching this every night of the Garma.

A short drive today soon saw us pulling into Nhulunbuy it is just a small town, our campsite was The Walkabout Lodge a nice little grassed area out the back of the lodge. We were able to use the facilities of the lodge so we all decided a night off cooking was the go. We got ready and headed over to the pub only to be told that no one under 18 could enter the pub, not even for a meal. We had never come across this before but realised it must be because of the strict alcohol laws up here. If we wanted to go and buy alcohol outside of the pub we had to go and get an alcohol licence. We did not bother as one or two drinks was all that was drunk on any one night and with the pub being beside us there was no need. The licence is because there is a huge problem in Aboriginal communities with alcohol. The indigenous people have a different body make up to ourselves and it really can not handle alcohol, it causes many problems. Anyway, I took Emma back to the caravan which allowed Trevor, Michelle and Jock to go and have a beer and order takeaway. I did not mind as I am not a fan of pubs and don’t drink anyway.

The Garma Festival of Traditional Culture is an annual festival that is held in north-east Arnhem Land. It is a celebration of the cultural inheritance of the Yolngu people, the aim is sharing knowledge and culture. It was started by the Yothu Yindi foundation. Poor Trevor was to miss the first day of Garma as he was not well enough, Michelle and Emma came in with us. There was not a lot going on the first day, lots of stalls for information for the Yolngu people, education, insurances all the everyday life things. We enjoyed wandering the stalls, Emma was picking up some nice freebies, we were all going for the free hats as it was pretty hot and not much shade about. We decided today would be the day to go and purchase any merchandise we wanted, I’m sure it will run out quickly. We met one of the ladies who designed one of the t-shirts, I bought a nice t-shirt for myself. It was like tent city there and each area put up in circles. You were not to enter any of the circles unless invited. Some were locals areas and others tourists. We passed by one and spotted Sue Ellen, we waved from outside and she came to greet us. She then took us in to meet her Aboriginal family, she has been adopted by this family as she nursed their father during his last weeks. He was the person who founded the Yothu Yindi foundation and was the lead singer of the group by the same name. We met his daughters and family, they were very welcoming and we felt very privileged to be sat in their camp chatting to them. One thing struck us, a young teenage girl was sitting with a billy in front of her on a little fire, she was pulling the leaves off a plant and throwing them in to the boiling water. We asked her what was she doing? Her reply, she was boiling the leaves to make a pack to put on her tooth as she had bad tooth ache. We were well impressed, we would have got our keys, got in the car, gone to the chemist and bought god knows what chemical and here she was happily sorting it out herself. Eunice showed us her weaving and the earrings she was also making, she told us stories and her hopes for the indigenous people. She had a great sense of humour.

When it came to late afternoon it was time to go and sit by the main arena in front of the stage for the evening Bunggul, traditional dancing. I have watched Aboriginal dancing before but this was not just for tourists this was the real thing, very different. We sat waiting for it to start and a young local girl came up to me and tried to get on my lap. I checked with her mother if it was okay and she said it was. Beautiful children, so friendly and inquisitive.

The dancing was fantastic, something I will never forget. The children dancing with their dads, children from the toddler to teenagers were watching their dads every move, it is how they learn. There were some very old men too obviously very fit as the dancing goes on and on. People were able to get up and join in as they pleased, actually they were encouraged to. Random locals would all of a sudden jump up and dance towards the others, one young man was my absolute favourite I was continuously watching and waiting for him to get up. The ladies were dancing now and then too. We were all in awe and very disappointed when it had to end. What a day, absolutely fantastic there is nothing I have ever experienced in my life that comes close. (outside of family of course).

We then headed over to have dinner, there is a big dining area and all food is laid on and very nice it was too. It was a time to mingle and chat with others. That evening the actor Jack Thompson was going to be reading poems by the fire so we headed over to have a listen. It was a lovely way to finish off the day, we sat in the dark by the fire with trees lit up all around us with Jack Thompson’s voice reciting poetry that his parents had recited to him over the years.