A short drive today soon saw us pulling into Nhulunbuy it is just a small town, our campsite was The Walkabout Lodge a nice little grassed area out the back of the lodge. We were able to use the facilities of the lodge so we all decided a night off cooking was the go. We got ready and headed over to the pub only to be told that no one under 18 could enter the pub, not even for a meal. We had never come across this before but realised it must be because of the strict alcohol laws up here. If we wanted to go and buy alcohol outside of the pub we had to go and get an alcohol licence. We did not bother as one or two drinks was all that was drunk on any one night and with the pub being beside us there was no need. The licence is because there is a huge problem in Aboriginal communities with alcohol. The indigenous people have a different body make up to ourselves and it really can not handle alcohol, it causes many problems. Anyway, I took Emma back to the caravan which allowed Trevor, Michelle and Jock to go and have a beer and order takeaway. I did not mind as I am not a fan of pubs and don’t drink anyway.
The Garma Festival of Traditional Culture is an annual festival that is held in north-east Arnhem Land. It is a celebration of the cultural inheritance of the Yolngu people, the aim is sharing knowledge and culture. It was started by the Yothu Yindi foundation. Poor Trevor was to miss the first day of Garma as he was not well enough, Michelle and Emma came in with us. There was not a lot going on the first day, lots of stalls for information for the Yolngu people, education, insurances all the everyday life things. We enjoyed wandering the stalls, Emma was picking up some nice freebies, we were all going for the free hats as it was pretty hot and not much shade about. We decided today would be the day to go and purchase any merchandise we wanted, I’m sure it will run out quickly. We met one of the ladies who designed one of the t-shirts, I bought a nice t-shirt for myself. It was like tent city there and each area put up in circles. You were not to enter any of the circles unless invited. Some were locals areas and others tourists. We passed by one and spotted Sue Ellen, we waved from outside and she came to greet us. She then took us in to meet her Aboriginal family, she has been adopted by this family as she nursed their father during his last weeks. He was the person who founded the Yothu Yindi foundation and was the lead singer of the group by the same name. We met his daughters and family, they were very welcoming and we felt very privileged to be sat in their camp chatting to them. One thing struck us, a young teenage girl was sitting with a billy in front of her on a little fire, she was pulling the leaves off a plant and throwing them in to the boiling water. We asked her what was she doing? Her reply, she was boiling the leaves to make a pack to put on her tooth as she had bad tooth ache. We were well impressed, we would have got our keys, got in the car, gone to the chemist and bought god knows what chemical and here she was happily sorting it out herself. Eunice showed us her weaving and the earrings she was also making, she told us stories and her hopes for the indigenous people. She had a great sense of humour.
When it came to late afternoon it was time to go and sit by the main arena in front of the stage for the evening Bunggul, traditional dancing. I have watched Aboriginal dancing before but this was not just for tourists this was the real thing, very different. We sat waiting for it to start and a young local girl came up to me and tried to get on my lap. I checked with her mother if it was okay and she said it was. Beautiful children, so friendly and inquisitive.
The dancing was fantastic, something I will never forget. The children dancing with their dads, children from the toddler to teenagers were watching their dads every move, it is how they learn. There were some very old men too obviously very fit as the dancing goes on and on. People were able to get up and join in as they pleased, actually they were encouraged to. Random locals would all of a sudden jump up and dance towards the others, one young man was my absolute favourite I was continuously watching and waiting for him to get up. The ladies were dancing now and then too. We were all in awe and very disappointed when it had to end. What a day, absolutely fantastic there is nothing I have ever experienced in my life that comes close. (outside of family of course).
We then headed over to have dinner, there is a big dining area and all food is laid on and very nice it was too. It was a time to mingle and chat with others. That evening the actor Jack Thompson was going to be reading poems by the fire so we headed over to have a listen. It was a lovely way to finish off the day, we sat in the dark by the fire with trees lit up all around us with Jack Thompson’s voice reciting poetry that his parents had recited to him over the years.
Douglas's Downunder 