Monthly Archives: August 2021

Our last day in Cooktown we had set aside for the museum, well actually we were supposed to go yesterday but when we rocked up it had closed! So today we would get the chance to go in. It is set out very well and has a lot in there. It is housed in an old convent. I had a bit of a job negotiating the stairs by now my back had been well and truly stirred up. The first photos are the actual anchor and canon from The Endeavor it’s very fascinating to be standing there looking at it. This post will be short and mostly photos.

There was a lot of reading to be done at this museum, if you were to read everything I would say you would need at least a morning in there. Jock reads a fair amount but I just like seeing the old items, old dresses, glasses, lace, they had it all. I do read some and get the jist of what I am looking at unless there is something that really interests me. Tomorrow we will pack up and leave Cooktown, I have really enjoyed being here and wouldn’t mind a week holiday here another time. One thing we did notice is the shop owners were not in general friendly it was as if they had had enough of the tourists, which no doubt they had but a few more smiles would not go a miss!

We had a day doing the usual chores, washing and supplies but at the same time we explored Cooktown a little more. We saw a sign for a lookout and followed it. It was lovely and we had views all around us, we could actually see our caravan on the other side of town, the waterway into Cooktown and on the other side the beaches and rock face. They have a time capsule up there, it was a little confronting to be standing reading about something that is not going to be opened until after my time! Poor old bugger! But we spent some time reading about where Captain Cook had landed and that he had come up this hill to get a view of where he was. His ship had come aground here and it had caused a large hole in the ship.

We had a general drive around town but like I said before it really isn’t that big. We spotted the museum so we set aside some time to do that the next day. We went back to camp to see a HUGE rig that had moved in, now that’s what I call a big rig, not sure i’d like the fuel bills or problem’s with getting into sites but hey if you have that much money who cares.

Today was Emma’s last day and she really wanted to do some fishing. So we decided a take away down by the sea and fishing would be the go. They have great facilities here for just that. The recommended takeaway was Thai, so we popped in placed our order then set up with the rods before we picked it up. Nothing was caught before eating but luckily Emma caught a bait fish and was very happy with her catch. Our Thai was lovely and there were tables to sit at, we had a little jetty to ourselves and a lovely evening was had by all. Jock didn’t catch a fish but he caught a boat!!!

All around this lovely park there were bricks printed with local peoples names it really was a lovely touch and interesting to read them, some actually said decedent of Capt Cook. I was thinking that we should have something similar in Kleinton/Highfields as we have so many people here from many places around the world and Australia.

The Curlews were around us hoping they were going to get some food. As we watched them we were surprised to hear a weird scalding noise come from them. It seems they make this noise if they want to go to something ie food but are very unsure as to whether to or not. I had always thought they just made that awful screeching at night.

Cooktown is somewhere Jock and I had both always wanted to go to so we were looking forward to this leg of our trip. It is a small town but bigger than many we had been to so far with cafe’s, supermarket and shops. On route to Cooktown we saw a sign for a gallery and coffee so pulled in for a look see. The gallery was lovely the art work was so realistic, there were a few I could have taken home with me but for the price but certainly worth the price. The coffee was good too! When we arrived in Cooktown all the campsites were fully booked so we booked into the racecourse which was open for a small fee for a night. We plan on staying here a few nights because Emma will be taken back to Cairns airport to fly back to boarding school and we want to explore the Cape Tribulation from here. It was nice to be on green grass and to have shops and facilities about. Once again no power but there was water available and great toilets and showers on site. We had a lovely rest day first day only going out in to town for supplies. The next day Jock headed out early with Scott to have a fish but nothing was happening, everyone telling Jock its the wrong time of year and too windy! I think that what is really needed is a boat to be out in the water rather than beach or pier. If he does not catch a fish soon he is just going to have to book onto a fishing charter, maybe in Cairns, he can’t go home without having caught a fish!

We went out to the pub for dinner, I imagine Jock enjoyed the break from cooking and certainly enjoyed his pub steak. I have to say I had to borrow a jacket off Michelle as it was so cold once that sun had gone down, actually it was probably the wind, we have been told there is always a wind here in Cooktown at this time of year. We had planned our trip to the Cape Tribulation for the next day, an early start as it would be a long day. We decided we did not want to do the main roads we would rather get on to the Bloomfield Track which was only 4wd. It was a great drive with lots of water crossings and changing scenery. People from overseas pay lots of money to do this drive and we are lucky enough to have it in our country and within reach. Sorry boasting now!!!

Our first stop was a waterfall, I could hear it but could also see that there were rocks to climb to get to it and as it was spitting with rain I decided it would not be wise for me to try to walk to it. Jock had a better look and said he felt it best if I didn’t try as the rocks were slippy. So he took the camera for me. As we drove we saw rivers and rainforest and lots of greenery. The road was narrow although two way, some parts were really rough, some not so bad. One that will always be with me is the hill we had to drive up after having been though water. As you can imagine lots of vehicles doing the same left the hill slippy!! We watched Trevor’s car dance and slide up in front of us and then we followed, not too bad for our car but we held our breath for a second. All good fun.

It really was a fabulous drive and we did not realise how many hours we had been in the car. We stopped at Cape Tribulation for lunch, all that was there was like a tourist hub, holiday accommodation and cafe’s. So many people, it was still school holiday time and people can get to here from the opposite way we came on a good road. Most would probable drive there from Cairns. After a good break we headed towards Cairns although we would not get right to Cairns, we had decided best to go back via the good roads so as to get back before dark. We had some steep drop off’s on this road straight down to beautiful beaches and we still had a water crossing. We stopped at the beach for a look see, we had been here before a few years back but boy had it changed! It used to be just a side stop along the main road but now there is a carpark and a lookout. A shame really but I suppose they need to deal with the many people coming to visit. Actually the last time we were here Janice and Geoff were with us.

We were soon at the ferry to cross the river there was a little wait as there were so many people on the road. We were soon back on the main roads and passing through Mossman and turning right at Mount Malloy to head up back to Cooktown. It is not wise to be on the roads after dark as there are too many wild animals that can cause accidents. Luckily we got back about 30 minutes before dark. What a fabulous day, I would love to do that drive again another time, maybe one day in the future.

Having left Hahn River we headed out to Elim Beach, we had seen this beach camp on a you tube series of the cape it looked beautiful. Our drive over the Elim beach was a great drive with water crossings and lovely scenery.

When we arrived at Elim we were not disappointed it was just lovely but still such a shame to have such a beautiful beach but not be able to swim or even stand near the edge of the water. Crocodiles being the main worry but if you manage to get out into the water you then have not only crocs to worry about but sharks too! So a drive up the beach was our preferred way to get to see all we wanted to see. We booked in to the campsite and picked our spot at the back by the trees. No power or water to be had here but there were showers and toilets and we were allowed to have fires so all was well. The next day we decided to have a proper explore, we had been told about the coloured sands, so we headed up the beach in the car at low tide, Michelle and Emma came along with Jock and I. The sands looked very much like the coloured sands on Fraser Island.

The sands were not too far from our camp so we decided to check out the other side of the beach from the camp. For this we drove into the camp and out on the beach side road. Little did we know where this road was going to take us! Firstly as we entered the beach there were a few very old beach houses, with very old furniture around. We wondered who they had belonged to and why left. Unfortunately there was no information on them. We did see one further back from the beach that was still used.

Once we were on to the beach again we decided we would not drive along it as the tide was starting to come in. So instead we had seen that the track we had been on continued along at the back of the beach. We saw signs telling us crocodiles inhabit this area but we were fine we were going to be staying in the car. We followed the track that got narrower and narrower, then another track, and another, we decided to keep going. Oh my goodness the scenery was just lovely we were right in among the huge sand dunes. We lost a caravan mirror along the narrow tracks but luckily found it on our return. I was so glad we had followed the tracks it was a lovely drive out and exciting. The scenery was not caught very well on camera, it is a shame but hey if you want to see it put it on your bucket list.

On our way back to camp we all chatted about what a great drive we had had. We picked up some good fire wood along the track and got a great fire going on our return to camp. Elim beach definitely was worth the visit.

Back onto the main roads again we headed for Hhan river campsite, supposedly good fishing! We could not get a powered site but were allowed our generator on until 7pm then we just had to be careful with power. Jock ordered two Lithium batteries to be delivered to Cairns post office so we could pick them up on our way back through. The campsite was lovely and green and lovely flower beds it made a change from all the dust and dirt. They have a resident Emu called Aussie that is very friendly but you have to take your shoes in as he has a shoe fetish, he just walked about the site visiting people as he went. It was the only Emu I have ever not been afraid of, they can be mean little shits. Jock was once chased by one at Ayres Rock, it chased him around our car and was not going to give up. He finally got into the car and locked the door. We also saw a Goanna, very big lizard to those of you in UK. Jock went off down the river for a fish, we keep hoping he will bring something back but no, still no fish! Later in the day a Peacock visited us.

It was really nice that we were able to have a fire, love these bush camps. Scott loved it because he could buy grog from the roadhouse and I was happy because they had half decent coffee. I’m going to leave this post here, short and sweet. Next stop Elim beach.

The drive out to Wiepa was interesting, lots of dirt and water. We were very lucky to get the last two sites on the campground, with caravans arriving as we booked. It was a bit packed and not what we like but there are no free camps in this area. We were put right next to two permanent caravans, one was friendly and the other we knew he/she was in but did not see anyone for the duration. I understand that for some people it is all they can afford but I certainly could not do it, using public facilities every day and having people coming and going all the time.

We tried to book to go out for a meal but everywhere was full. So we decided that the “restaurant” at the campsite had good reviews and it was served on first come first served and if all tables are full we would just bring it back to the vans. There were tables out all over the grass overlooking the beach and you made your order at the hatch. So once we were all settled in and Jock, Scott and I had had a quick drive around to see what was about we headed over to the tables and luckily got one. By the way, the little drive about we took, it was definitely little, Wiepa is far smaller than I had expected. We ordered our meals and I have to say the reviews were spot on everything was very nice. As it got dark the lights came on, it looked really nice with them strung between trees, just those string of clear bulbs but very effective. We saw the sunset, had an ice cream for desert and headed to bed.

The next day Jock and Scott went for a fish, unfortunately did not catch anything, its the same story all over, wrong time of year! We looked into fishing trips but once again all booked up. There was a beach he was told to go out to but it was a fair drive and he was not in the mood to go. We went to the shops and posted a couple of cards and had another little drive about but no, we could not find anything else to see in Wiepa. We are glad we drove out there but we all said it is somewhere we don’t ever need to go back to.

Next morning we packed up and headed for Bramwell Station to pick up the caravans. Good job we did not need any fuel at Bramwell as the traffic was backed up from the service station out the gate and up the road out of sight. Apparently they had run out of fuel and more was on its way. We got in to our van to an awful smell, I knew what it was straight away and stepped straight back out of the van. I told Jock I was sorry but I would leave him to that! The fridge had failed, the batteries had failed so all contents of the fridge and freezer had to be bagged and binned and a quick clean of both fridge and freezer. YUK! Luckily there was not too much in there. We grabbed a bite to eat and got back on the track.

Next stop was Archer River, you may remember we stayed there on the way up and had said another stop was a must as Michelle, Emma and I wanted to have a dip in the river because when we passed it last time it looked so inviting. Once we were set up we headed over to the river and got in, it was so nice a great way to cool down and the water was so clear.

There were two girls playing near to us, they were taking it in turns to ride the “rapids” on a big tube. After about the third round one of the girls came up to us and said there was a croc!!!!! OMG I stood up so fast and was about to get out. Michelle asked, is it a freshie, yes it was a freshie and it was hiding in the side of the river bank. Oh thats ok then!!!!! Really??? Michelle convinced me we were ok, so we headed over to take a look. The girls parents were by now over there taking photos, I climbed back up on the bank and looked over but couldn’t quite see it. It’s better viewed from the water the father exclaimed………..yeh right!!! I stayed put, Michelle and Jock got in for a look and to get photos. Fresh water crocodiles are somewhat smaller than salt water crocs and they do not attack unless you corner them or aggrivate them. So leave them alone and they will leave you alone. We took our photos and then went back to enjoying the water but to honest I could not fully relax knowing he was so close by.

We left our mate the freshie to his water hole and headed back over to the campsite ready for a fire. Not as many campers here this time so we were not all crammed in. We had our generator going for a while to top up the batteries, they are playing up terribly. It wasnt long before we smelt a terrible smell, Scott reckoned it was coming from our van. We sniffed, smelt an awful off egg smell but could not work out what it was. Our neighbour came over and said our batteries were frying, they were over heating!! So, that’s it the batteries are buggered. A bit of a pain when it comes to the fridge in the van, thank goodness we have a fridge in the back of the car. Until we can get the batteries sorted we really need to be on campsites with power which is a bit of a pain as we like free camps.

Once again the roads were terrible and definitely getting worse, we had made the right decision coming up a bit earlier with all the traffic that is about. By the time we got off the barge it was not long before we saw the sign for Fruit bat Falls, Michelle had also found an overnight stop for us just about 10k up the road from the falls. So we had asked Scott if he wanted to go to the falls, he didn’t, so we parked up at the entrance to the road and Scott stayed in the car with the dogs. We jumped in the car with Michelle and Trevor as this is one of those places that does not allow dogs. The falls were not far down the track and after we had parked up we walked the short walk out to them, Wow! They looked just lovely and people were in swimming so we decided we were definitely getting in too. We had worn our swim suits here just in case. Emma and I were put off a little as Jock spotted a snake, it was swimming along the edge of the rocks. Trevor kept an eye on it as we got in, he said it was busy hunting the falls banks. I was also aware that there were most probably fresh water crocs in there too but the water was so clear surely I would see one if there were! I was being very brave!!

Who could resist that hey? The water was cool but not cold we easily walked into it, getting out would prove harder. Michelle, Emma and I got in first and swam over to the falls themselves. Jock followed and Trevor finally gave in and got wet too. What a beautiful place, thank goodness the fellah at the campsite told us about them. The men were first out of the water, us girls just wanted to stay there and we did for as long as we possibly could. I reckon this was one of the highlights of our trip.

Alas all too soon we had to leave with plan of maybe coming back in the morning. But first I had to get out of the water!!! You know I can’t kneel, well it was some job getting out. Michelle, Jock and Trevor got me out eventually, how? Well lets just say, “what happened at fruitbat falls, stays at fruitbat falls”. Would I do it again? Hell yea! Our camp for the night was just up the road in a gravel pit. We were soon set up and sat by the fire talking about our adventurous day. Emma and I had smors, a flame grilled marshmallow squished between two chocolate biscuits, yum. All of us were very tired and crawled in to bed early ready for another day on the road tomorrow.