The Horizontal Falls

The boys had had their fishing day and before we knew it it was 4.30am Thursday and time to get up and be ready for transport pickup at 5.30am, Horizontal falls here we come.

We were so excited, we have watched videos of this trip and seen lots of photos and now we were on a bus to catch our flight on a sea plane to the falls. Like everything here, it seems, we were weighed before getting in to our seats. Our pilot was Ben but not the Ben Michelle had met and talked with about doing this trip. There were only 8 of us on this plane and it took about an hour and 20 minutes over some fantastic scenery before we came to the falls. As soon as the pilot could see the falls he flew us over them, twice to make sure each side of the plane got a good view.

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We approached the pontoon in Talbot bay and for my first time ever landed on the sea, certainly smoother than on a runway! Michelle and I got off on to the pontoon and just stood there saying, “wow” what a great sight, it was magnificent. They had planes about to take off so we stood and watched those as we made ourselves a cup of coffee. We were just blown away by it all and we had not yet been through the falls. This bay is right at the top of Australia and a long way from anywhere absolutely stunning.

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We only had 15 minutes for our cuppa before we were loaded on to a speed boat. This was it, we are off to the falls. Everyone trying to be at the front of the boat Michelle and I picked our way further back and to either side for a good view. The falls were less than 1km from the pontoon so we were soon there. The driver took us up to the first fall to let us look at the power and volume of water being forced through the gap. He approached different ways for all to have a good look and take photos then he took a big run at it and we drove through, omg what a thrill. A little scary as the pass is not really wide but absolutely brilliant what a rush. He then took us back through again and through again, woo hoo! Then he took us to the second fall which has a smaller gap and the water was running out so fast that we could not safely go through it but we were assured that when the tide came back in later we would revisit and go through. He explained to us the height of the water behind the gap and we could see it was at least a metre higher on the other side and gushing out with such force. So he took us back through the other fall, then again and then again for the last time. We were then taken back to the pontoon where they had a full cooked breakfast waiting for us.

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Here we go time to swim with the sharks! I was brave for two reasons, first of all putting on a swimsuit and of course the fact we were getting in with these sharks that were getting fed. Its ok, not as bad as it sounds, two cages one fully enclosed the other had not bottom to it so that what ever wanted to swim in could. Comforting!! The sea temperature was not great but not terrible we gingerly got in and were soon right next to these big sharks they are called nursery sharks. They had their stomachs pushed hard up against the fence between us and of course Michelle and I wanted to go one step further and feel their skin. It took a couple of attempts (well they have got a mouthful of teeth you know and they were being fed)! But stroke them we did, they felt very soft and smooth. Feeling very brave now we stroked a couple more being sure to keep our fingers down their stomach as far from the teeth as possible. I swear they were enjoying it and actually had themselves pressed up against there just for that. One thing we did notice was just how salty the sea was, I know sea is salty but never have I known anywhere as salty.

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This was the bit of the trip where I felt rushed, we got out of the shark tank and went to get changed, we queued for the hose of fresh water then again for a cubicle. By the time Michelle and I were dressed our boat was waiting to take us sightseeing around Cyclone bay. It was very picturesque and we had rock formations, flora and fauna explained to us. We were show just how high the tide can get by the dark stains on the rock. We looked for the local resident crocodile, he was hiding, probably had a good eye on us! We also saw little bright red crabs, they were everywhere. It really was peaceful and leisurely just what we needed after the rush getting out of the shark tank.

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As we approached the pontoon we were told we were off to see the falls again. It was everything as good as the first time and a bit more because this time we got to go through the second falls. Now that was very hairy as it was VERY narrow, he took us through twice then back to the first one to do that again. Not quite sure how many times he took us through but I know the whole boat full were enjoying it we were having a ball. Our hearts sank a little when it was all over, like a kid who had a bag of lollies and had it taken of him. We all quietened down and resigned ourselves to getting back on to the pontoon ready for departure. Mind you the day was not over yet we still had plenty to do. Soft drinks and fresh fruit were on offer as we waited for our flight off the pontoon. That’s when we finally got to meet Ben, the original pilot that Michelle had chatted to at our campsite in Katherine. He was on his way back to work and had given us the information of the company he worked for and the best dates to go to the falls. We had thought he was to be our pilot for the day not realising there were two Ben’s.

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We loaded quietly on to the sea plane sad to leave this all behind. What an experience, it certainly is something we will come back to and would encourage everyone to put on their bucket list. We took off and took our last looks of the Horizontal falls as we flew over them. We had an hours flight to Cape Leveque once again over magnificent scenery.

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On dry land again it was now time to hop on to a 4wd bus. We headed straight for The Trochus shell hatchery at One Arm Point although it was not what I expected it was interesting a reef maintenance program. The indigenous owners showed us around with great pride showing us how they were replacing the food they hunt from the surrounding seas. Also selling shells to make money for the local community, the shells had been polished and looked lovely a bit like mother of pearl.

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Whale song Cafe at the top of Cape Leveque for lunch. It was a chance to actually chat with those we were travelling with, a good friendly bunch. It was clear that everyone was thinking the same as us and had thoroughly enjoyed their morning. Lunch was chicken and salad or crispy skin salmon for those who liked fish. The views were lovely of the white sand meeting the red rocks of Northern Australia.

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Back on the bus we headed to Kooljaman beach for a quick dip (no thanks not for me, chance of sharks with no fence between us and chance of crocodiles, that’s me out). The beach was beautiful, the sand so white with the red rock next to it. By now I had run out of battery on my mobile so could not take any more photos. Michelle’s mobile had also run out but luckily she also had her little camera with her.

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On to Beagle Bay, an indigenous community that has some white mans history in their midst. Sacred heart church also known as the Mother of Pearl church it has a lot of history and was built by the Germans that were captured and kept in Beagle bay back in world war one. Aboriginal women decorated the church inside with mother of pearl, cowrie, volute and olive snail shells. It really was something to see, so much work had gone into it, basically mosaic but with shells. Unfortunately the photos of inside are on Michelle’s camera still. But if you google the church you will no doubt see lots of photos of the inside.

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Well, that was it, we will now head back to Broome, which we had been heading towards anyway but time to sit back and realax until we get back to camp. What a day. Fantastic we were both on a huge high.